Picture It: Sicily 2023. Finale.

Day 6

Who doesn't love a 4:00 am alarm? It was an early rise but worth it to save a ton of money and even more so time. Once a day, at 06:00-06:30 am, there is an express bus that takes you from Agrigento to Catania and then just a short bus ride from Catania to Taormina. Had I taken the normal route it would be 7-10hrs depending on the time of day. This was worth getting up early! I wish I had known this before I spent hundreds & hundreds of dollars getting to Agrigento in the first place but as they say "woulda, shoulda, coulda".

After two bus rides, I was back in Taormina! My friends were waiting for me in their AirBNB and when I arrived at their spot they had found two ladies to come in and do their nails, so I had time to group myself together. After getting my beach bag together I decided to go around the corner to the local barber in the heart of the town. The barber at Melo Barber Shop spoke no English but gave me the perfect fade.

After my haircut we headed to the beach. Down, down, down... through twisty turvy downward hills, cracked stone outdoor staircases and finally to the beach. Seated on the break-water to Isola Bella, we plopped down our beach gear and immediately basked in the glorious sunshine. The water was a little chilly that day so we didn't really swim but definitely enjoyed the atmosphere. Once we were sufficiently baked in the sun we popped over to the beach restaurant at the far end of the sandy paradise beach where waves crashed up over the lower deck and ordered some delicious pasta and wine. With a view of Isola Bella I was instantly transported back to watching the infamous show "White Lotus" where in season 2, Isola Bella was featured. It gave me great Jennifer Coolidge vibes.

After our late lunch on the beach we went back up the hill to the AirBNB where we decided to take a nap before going out to dinner. Dinner was a scrumptious feast of Caprese, other salads, pasta and for me Branzino... the perfect start to the evening. We wandered after dinner to find a great outdoor restaurant/cocktail spot, Ristorante La Scala, hidden in a stair-lined alley where we sat outside, had cocktails and listened to the musicians who performed outside. He even made me tear up as he played my high school graduation song: Wonderwall by Oasis. We spent the rest of the evening going to cocktail spots all around and enjoying a perfect Sicilian evening.

Day 7

Haleigh had reached the end of her trip but Jackie and I were headed off to Ortigia.

We hopped a train to the beautiful town which is the oldest area of Siracusa. Immediately we were struck by the stunning ornate architecture of the old town. We checked into our charming AirBNB tucked just in from the main street along the water.

Once we showered and got our bearings, micronapped, we decided to wander the streets and check out what Ortigia had to offer. We strolled in and out of shops, grabbed small bites and coffee along the way and just enjoyed the art of dolce far niente. I suggested we take a look to see if there any cool AirBNB experiences in the area so after we scrolled through the app we found a boat tour around Ortigia and Sircusa. Our guide, Claudio, was the perfect host to show us through the beautiful coast line. He was a dapper older gentleman, dressed in a simple yet classically European outfit: Blue jeans, a light sweater, ocean blue cashmere scarf and simple deep brown suede coat. He went between speaking English, Italian and French depending on which boat guest he was talking to... or comically jesting. We entered a few sea caves along the Syracusan coast and giggled as the water splashed up into the boat along the way. Claudio explained all the buildings and their history as we moved through the north coast.

Jackie and I were starved after travelling and then venturing around so we decided to walk until we found a spot on the water serving up aperitivo as we definitely needed snacks but most importantly wine. We sat and just enjoyed the breeze off the water accompanied with snacks and quality conversation with each other. The bar owner had a beautiful dog that kept the outdoor guests entertained as it was the sweetest black and white little angel. I don't know who teared up more, Jackie or me, but we loved the sweet and gentle nature of the dog as it rested it's head in our laps relishing in our pats.

Once we finished a few glasses of wine we decided to take Zio Toto's suggestion for a gorgeous restaurant that had a rooftop restaurant looking out at all of Ortigia/Siracusa. Grand Hotel Ortigia. Toto had actually suggested we go for apertivo but we had just missed it so we instead were the first dinner guests of the night. F-A-N-C-Y to say the least and we definitely were not dressed for the occasion but we weren't made to feel anything but welcome. The menu was small and everything sounded amazing so we indulged and just went for it. We started off with "complimentary" prosecco and then course after course the food just kept coming and of course wine to pair. It was most definitely the most expensive meal of the trip, but based on atmosphere, service, quality and of course the company... it was worth it.

After dinner we just enjoyed a walk along the water before heading back to our AirBNB, tucked in the alley, with snacks we picked up and just had a relaxing night in our cozy beds.

Day 8

In the morning we wandered down to a cafe for our caffeine fix and we sat in the street side patio with covering to shelter from the rain. After we were fuelled up we went to Il Mercato di Ortigia, a beautiful street market. Antiques, produce, clothing, crafts... everything, it was all there. I decided it was a good idea to start with an interesting breakfast: there were many seafood vendors serving up oysters and white wine for 1 Euro. When in Ortigia. We then ventured over the a sandwich place that came highly recommended by Claudio and he definitely did not disappoint; Fratelli Burgio. This place was dreamy for a foodie... tapinades, olive oils and many more beautiful things, it was a delicious dream. We ordered up our huge sandwiches and walked the streets as crumbs fell all over us and sauces dripped down our chins. We spent the morning/early afternoon just browsing stores.

It was time to go back to Taormina. We boarded the train and headed back.

I checked back into my hotel where Giusy awaited my arrival and Jackie went to her AirBNB. I was wiped so I took a nap before meeting up later that night for dinner. Dinner was of course incredible but all I recall that evening was the pistachio cheesecake for dessert. After dinner we bopped around to different outdoor cocktail spots before going our seperate ways. Jackie went on to hang with her Taormina buddies and I went to sleep.

Day 9

This was a much needed day of rest. Nothing to report. Just rest. All day.

Day 10

The last day in Sicily.

I had been missing taking advantage of the breakfast buffet at Il Piccolo Giardino... it wasn't anything wild, but it was perfect.

After breakfast I met up with Jackie to go see some historical sites around Taormina. Teatro Antico di Taormina was the one we both definitely loved. We could always see it off in the distance but hadn't made it there. The ancient theatre was started in the third century by the Greeks. It was originally constructed as a theatre for performance and plays but later became a battleground for gladiators in Roman times. The ruins looked over Messina and Taormina and what stood remains of the ruins were incredible. Architecture is always going to be my nerd moment.

After we toured around for awhile, I decided I had to take Jackie to Castelmola and of course Bar Turrisi. The dicks, everywhere, dicks. Penises everywhere you looked (go back and read Day 1 of Sicily). This is where I knew Jackie was my kinda friend, after a couple drinks, I said to her I wish she would come to Budapest with me the next day... so she said, okay! She booked her flight then & there. What kind of friend just goes with your idea like that? Flying to yet another country, totally blind and just does it with conviction? Jackie, that's who. God, I love her.

After we had a few drinks surrounded by cocks, it was time to go back to our respective accomodations and pack. I also had to say goodbye to Giusy, even though she (without knowing) cost me $617.00 CAD unexpectedly to get to San Leone/Agrigento, I still adored and was so grateful for her. The flight the next day was early and we had no idea what was in store for us still...

Stay tuned for Budapest, Hungary...

Picture It: Sicily 2023. Part 2.

Day 3 Continued

Have you ever played "Frogger" before? You know, the infamous 1981 arcade action game highlighted in an episode of Seinfeld back in the 90's? Try playing that in real life but on a metered electric scooter, in a foreign city with insane traffic while trying to keep google maps open on your phone with one hand to navigate your way to meet up with your hiking guide. Jackie and I were laughing our heads off but in reality we were absolutely terrified. I was in the lead because I was the navigator but these stand up scooters don't really go as fast as they need to when you're over 200lbs... it was the little engine that tried hard haha. After a few near death experiences in the streets of Catania with insane drivers that make their own rules to the road... we made it. Our guide was incredibly welcoming which made our journey all worth it; we were off to climb Mount Etna.

In front of the large passenger van were two older women from England, back with us were two girls from Germany and two girls from Hong Kong. We drove to the base of Mount Etna where our guide took us and showed us the effects of the landscapes by the past eruptions and gave us some history of the glorious volcano. After that we began driving up the Volcano where we reached a spot where we got out to explore the caves created by erupted lava. We were given helmets and head lamps to explore these glorious magma-made caverns. As I approached the end of the cave I heard a commotion behind me; one of the British ladies fell. Jackie caught her and tended to her wounds before helping her out of the treacherous site. When we got back to the passenger van our attentive guide tried to clean her up and patch the wound but she only lived by Ayurvedic medicine. She quickly told Jackie and I about her life as a witch as well as all of her ways in which she stayed one with the earth.

When we reached the base of the summit the skies opened up and the heavy rain began so Jackie and I decided to stay back to shop through the tourist shops and we convinced Anna, our British witch, to stay with us. Anna regaled us with many stories while we shopped. It was an interesting day to say the least and we didn't even get to climb the summit of the volcano. *we lied and said we did anyway haha... woops! spoiler.

When we got back to Taormina we rested up for awhile, grabbed Haleigh and headed out for a nice dinner as it was my last day in Taormina for a couple days as I was off to meet my friend's relatives on the other side of Sicily.

Day 4

Remember Giusy? My Sicilian godmother? She convinced me that it would be much easier for me if I just allowed her to book me a private car to drive me from Taormina to Agrigento so I agreed. She promised that when I returned to Il Piccolo Giardino she would give me the nicest room in the hotel.

The sexiest tanned, perfectly quaffed, Italian man of whom dressed in a perfectly tailored navy suit pulled up in his luxurious Mercedes Benz and promptly opened the door for me as I got in to head off to my next life changing adventure.

We passed through the most picturesque rolling hills with proper Italian landscapes capturing my eye. I eventually napped my way through this luxurious ride. I will never tell anyone what it ended up costing me to have this private chauffer, I only ever told Zio Toto and Zio Liborio... we'll get to that later but I can guarantee that godmother Giusy apologized profusely.

I felt the car slow as we pulled into San Leone, Sicily. San Leone is a seaside town and port South of Agrigento. It rises on the Akragas point, near the mouth of the Akragas river. It was the calmest place I had been since years previous visiting Kamari, Greece. I checked into my bed & breakfast but quickly took note that no one else was there. I walked out onto the balcony and listened to the roaring waves off the beach. It felt very calm. Too calm. Was I about to star in my own horror movie? I promptly texted my dear friend Anna Maria back home (who recommended I visit this place) and asked if maybe I should just go to the main city instead. While I contemplated my next move I went for a walk along the beach which was so peaceful but so very empty. I decided to go to Agrigento instead because Anna Maria told me the town would likely stay like this because it wasn't the weekend or not quite summer yet.

Off I went, my giant overstuffed Homiee backpack taking up about 2 feet of back space and my rolling carry-on suitcase, into a massively crammed local bus. "Ragazzi! Ragazzi!" the women were yelling while back handing boys hanging from the above railings on the bus, everyone yelling at me to take my backpack off and I didn't understand what they were saying until one person in English told me. If you moved you bumped into 4-5 people. I think there were people standing on other's shoulders, tucked into rafters, 6 in a 2 seater, wherever you looked... people. It was insane.

"Agrigento!" the bus driver yelled, I was there. Thank god. I scurried over to my hotel that was inside the main centre train station. I was done. I was exhausted. I crashed the rest of the night.

Day 5

*CRASH* *SMASH* *BANG* OH MY GOD, I'M UNDER SEIGE! WAIT NO, THERE'S A TRAIN IN MY HOTEL ROOM!... Did I mention my hotel was in the Agrigento train station? Holy crap. If you wake up before the trains start for the day then you're fine but if you want to feel like you're waking up in a war scene at 05:00 then I can totally recommend this place to you.

Well, I was up for the day. My hotel room had a full kitchen stocked with goodies and essentials so I made myself some espresso and ate a croissant while I got ready for the day.

Anna Maria (as well as her Zio Toto in our correspondence) had told me about a really cool archeological site nearby that I definitely had to check out: Valley of the Temples.

Out front of my hotel I grabbed the local bus and headed down to the historical local treasure. As I traipsed up the dusty path to the head office there were a few little vendors along the way so of course I grabbed a quick espresso before going into the main building. Once I paid my admission they gave me a detailed map and an english audio guide so that I could self-guide my way through the famed historic site.

To say it was magical would be an understatement. I love history. I love imagining what/who stood here before me. As I followed my audio guide through The Temple of Dioscuri, The Temple of Olympian Zeus, The Temple of Concordia, the Statue of Icarus, The Temple of Heracles, The Temple of Aesculapius, The Tomb of Theron, The Golden Gate, The Temple of Vulcan and The Temple of Juno... I was in awe of the incredible architecture that still stood of the glorious Greek masterpieces. *If you're visiting western Sicily and love ancient architecture as much as I do, you need to visit this place.

Once I finished up touring the Valley of the Temples, I jumped back on the local bus and went back to my hotel to meet zio Toto.

There, meeting me, was a friendly face that looked as if I had known him my whole life. This man is the uncle of my friend Anna Maria. He and I had been talking for weeks in preparation for this trip.

Zio Toto did not speak English and my Italian is not very good, which is sad because this was my fourth time in my favourite country. I immediately pulled out Google translate and we used the speech to text function and the rest of the day went seamlessly because of it.

As we drove from Agrigento Centrale, Toto told me we were going to his summer house and then onwards to Anna Maria's grandmothers house that she lived in from 1980 until she passed years later. We drove up to a gorgeous property surrounded by exotic trees and lush foliage to a charming stone house with teal doors and shutters. It was a simple, yet magnificient bungalow with a small courtyard dividing the house a bit. Brown tile floors, butter yellow walls and wooden beams accenting the vaulted ceilings. The dining table was lined up with many chairs as of course you'd imagine, that is so the whole family can dine together over decadent Sicilian meals. The wood ovens in the courtyard and large claw pots all around. It was simple but truly inviting.

Next we went to the family home where I stood at the gate and zio Toto told me many stories of his siblings and their families. You could already tell how much love and adoration he had for his large family. This home was really more significant for his children and all of his nieces and nephews but later he would show me the home that was truly an important foundation of he and his siblings lives.

It was then time to meet his brother, Liborio. We pulled up to the gates of Liborio's country estate and as the gate opened I noticed all the names of his family listed on the stone columns at the front gate (homes and complexes in Sicily are typically gated as car theft is pretty prevalent in the area). Once we arrived at the house zio Liborio came out to greet me with his wife. Liborio spoke french so he was able to communicate a bit more fluid with me that way but would often switch back to Italian so we continued to use our translator app. They had fresh, local food for me to snack on and a nice cold Coca-Cola. We sat around the table and talked about the family and I started to learn a lot about their history. Once we talked for a while, Liborio and Toto took me to the cellar of his home; this is where they gather to celebrate and have parties. "You have to take a picture of the pizza oven, this is where we make our bread and even cook lamb, my sister Pasqualina will be very jealous" Liborio said as he mimicked her crying haha (or thats what was translated).

From there we journeyed into the main part of the town of Aragona. This is where things became very clear that it was going to be an emotional visit. Both Toto and Liborio were excellent story tellers and they shared with me every detail they could remember as we strolled through the town. We started with the Palazzo Principe where the city originated in 1604 by virtue of the prince. People came from all over including distant countries with hopes of increasing their qualities of people to work in the fields.

As we walked through the town, I couldn't help but be amazed by the incredible architecture that still stood today. See, most people left Aragona in the late 70's - early 80's as they were struck hard by a recession, this is when Anna Maria’s parents came to Saint John, NB, Canada (where we both live and work together now). Some left and went to other countries and those that felt they couldn't or didn't want to typically moved out to the countryside where Liborio lives.

I noticed little paper memorials all over the city and some were from their family and they kindly shared with me some history of Anna Maria's fathers family as well.

They took me to their childhood home where they told me stories of the silly things the brothers would do to the sisters and of course all their mischevious childhood behaviors. Liborio showed me where they'd play soccer in the streets as young boys and infact where he played when he met the boy who would later become his brother-in-law (Anna Maria's father). They took me to my friend's paternal grandmothers house and shared with me that people in the town would come to her house to use her oven to make bread.

"This neighborhood was as big as a city with how many kids there were in the courtyards and it was always full, even after midnight. There were always people playing and when we were hungry, we smelled the food being cooked we went to whatever house the smell was coming from." I was in love with how incredible this community sounded, it was truly one big famiglia in Aragona. He showed me where his little sister would play on the stairs and you'd often find her sitting and enjoying the fresh ricotta she went to buy every morning and share with her siblings/friends along with delicious fresh breads.

Liborio told me a beautiful story about how his little sister and his brother-in-law met, engaged and married in this town so Toto took me to the church where they got married. Something about me is that I love churches. They hold so much history of incredible as well as devastating memories. There were still decorations up because I arrived not long after they would have had the huge, glorious Easter celebrations. Toto got very nostalgic as he told me about the baptisms and marriages that were held in this very special church.

There were so many stories and special memories they shared with me, it was truly heart warming. I am a big family guy and they are too so we definitely had a day of bonding. A couple years before this trip I had lost one of my uncles who played a huge role in my life and the energy and spirit I got from Toto and Liborio had me fighting back tears all day as they reminded me of him (my uncle/zio Mike would have made a good Sicilian, he loved hard and big and made sure everyone felt it).

From there we jumped back into the car and took me to a family restaurant that wasn't yet open for the season but it sat high on the hilltop across from the center of Aragona. "Roba Nica", it was beautiful. All along the property were the biggest, brightest roses I had ever seen. We went inside and dusted off some chairs and a table so that we could sit and talk over some delicious espresso. More stories, more love.

Toto and I took Liborio back home before venturing off to our next stop on the tour: La Scala dei Turchi. We parked on the side of the road looking out over the ocean and Toto guided me over to a great lookout spot. There, I stood in complete awe of beauty. Humongous, extraordinary white cliffs that have been carved into a staircase by the wind and sea, surrounded by the bluest sea I have ever seen. The rock is composed of marl, soft, calcareous, clayey and is just the most dazzling white. The salty breeze has smoothed out every angle. It was the most melancholic feeling standing there in the sea breeze.

We then drove down to the beach that sits below the cliffs and my cell reception went to zero so we had no ability to communicate but to just walk on the silk-like sand and just be. Toto and I just listened to the waves as we walked, breathed in the fresh sea air and took note of the faint smell of seaweed that reminded me of home. After we walked for awhile we made our way back to the all white beach bar that sat at the start of the beach. He ordered a couple fresh, lemon Granita for us and we just sat and enjoyed the last bit of sun before nightfall.

We finished off with probably the most delicious pizza I have ever had at his friend's restaurant a few km's away. We sat and talked about everything we saw that day and I expressed gratitude to him as much as I could for doing all of this for me. I have never met a kinder man. I even strongly insisted on paying the bill but he was having none of that.

As Toto drove me back to my hotel he pointed out the Valley of the Temples off in the distance because at night the ethereal ruins were gorgeously lit up. I again thanked him repeatedly for one of the best days of my life. Zio Toto was all class, he acted as if it were nothing and thanked me for coming to visit.

I got back to my hotel and immediately screenshot every single conversation we had through my translator because I never want to lose them, these stories will always be special to me. I then went to sleep because I would have an early morning the next day as I was taking the bus back to my new friends in Taormina.

... to be continued.

Picture It: Sicily 2023. Part 1.

Day 1

A lack of sleep can really make me delirious. I had a few hours sleep, partially because I didn't want to miss my alarm and partially because I had indigestion from Le McDonald's I had while packing for the next part of my European adventure. 4:27am in an Uber, headed to Charles-de-Gaulle to catch my EasyJet flight to Catania, Sicily. Once I boarded the plane I was instantly asleep. Seated front row on the aisle, a flight attendant woke me up and I thought how awesome, we're there! No. They discovered a cell phone on the plane that didn't belong to any passenger on this flight so because it has to be taken very seriously, the plane stopped taxing down the runway and turned back to the airport to bring the mysterious phone back and file a report. An hour delayed because of this incident... I didn't think my late arrival in Catania would be an issue but I was wrong.

My hotel in Taormina had sent a driver for me and I spotted the sign that read "Donnelly" in the crowd. He was pissed. No one told him my flight was delayed. What would typically take an hour to get to Hotel Il Piccolo Giardino in the heart of Taormina, Sicily, took him 35mins. His foot must have almost gone through the floor of the car. This was the day of King Charles III's coronation in London, England so the radio was on and they were talking about it; with the limited Italian in my repertoire I could only make out the choice names he was calling Queen Camilla and some nasty words about the new King of England.

He pulled onto a narrow street and refused to drive any further so he curtly gave me walking direction to go down the rest of the street to my hotel. Hotel Il Piccolo Giardino, this was my home for the next few days. When I arrived I was met by woman who was working the front desk and she asked if the driver was okay.. I of course said yes (because she was the one who sent him for me) and she laughed and asked if he was cranky with me because he was cranky with her about my delayed flight. We both laughed and I was off to my room. I later learned her name is Giusy; my new found Sicilian godmother.

After some relaxation, phone charging time and watching the coronation in Italian, I threw on my swimsuit and headed up to the rooftop pool to relax and cool off. Reading "Live Wire" by Kelly Ripa (of whom gave me a shoutout on Instagram for reading her book), I would every now and again glance up and take in the breathtaking view of the town of Taormina and of course the Ionian Sea. I have always felt, in a cosmic way, very at home in Italy but Sicily was a new feeling. I could just sense this was going to be a life changer.

I am not cool. This is an on going theme in my life. I'm not saying that I'm a loser or anything but I definitely don't have that cool factor (are you picturing Henry Winkler as Fonzie when I say cool? No? Just me?). Most people that use Grindr are on there for *wink* *wink* *nudge* *nudge*... Me? I honestly have met some really great travel friends via the infamous hookup app instead. I chatted up this other traveller who was from New York and we decided to meet up and go explore.

He had a car rented so we hopped in the car and drove through the zoomy-windey-topsy-turny roads to the middle of Castelmola (Castelmola is one of Italy's Borghi Più Belli – Most Beautiful Villages. If you're in Taormina – for a few days or just for an afternoon – it's worth making your way from busy Taormina to this tiny village built around the ruins of a 16th century Norman castello (castle).) We climbed the hill and through my new friend's research we worked our way to this infamous spot "Bar Turrisi". What was it famous for? Dicks. Schlongs. Peckers. One Eyed Willys. Menus in the shape of them, ornate carvings into furniture, sculptures, sink taps, art work... everywhere, cocks. I got a huge kick out of it, was laughing with the other patrons and the staff... but my new friend? Dud. He had zero personality and this place was HIS idea. I knew I would have to return eventually with someone way more fun (stay tuned for that later on in my blog posts). After we got our fill of the wiener bar, we headed back to the town of Taormina for dinner. We went to a really nice restaurant for a delicious feed of pasta and zero conversation because this guy had the personality of kitty litter but the drunk American woman at the table next to us was super fun to chat with instead. I eventually called it a night and went back to my hotel to sleep.

Day 2

Eggs and fruit in the terrazza giardino followed by a stroll down the street to the famous Bam Bar for a coffee granita and a croissant. Great fuel for a day of cooking classes to come.

Ristorante Pizzeria Porta Messina was only a 3 min walk from my hotel and I was so excited to learn how to make the delectable cannolis. The class was full of fun people, super motivated and a wonderful instructor who just loved his job, you could tell. Pure ingredients, farm fresh eggs, fragrant riccota and vanilla. We all participated but of course being the over-achiever always, the instructor kind of played favourite with me a bit... sorry, I can't help it... I'm always the main character vibe. Pistachio, rich chocolate, candied orange... we dressed our homemade, sweet ricotta, crispy yet perfect cannoli with all the beautiful options which only made everything so much more delicious. After we finished making them we sat on the terrazza and enjoyed the fruits of our labour. I mostly chatted with (in between bites) this adorable couple who took the husbands mother on a pilgrimage journey of her family history.

After my morning class I sauntered back to the hotel for a lunch time swim in the unheated mini rooftop infinity pool to cool down.

After my swim and a quick shower I was ready for an afternoon of Arancini! What is an Arancini? It is a risotto ball that is stuffed, coated with breadcrumbs and deep fried. Yup, I was on a mission to cook all the most delicious comfort foods that day. This time it was a one-on-one cooking class. The restaurant was full and I was just at a table in the back with my private instructor while pigeons waddled in and walked all over my feet to try and catch the scraps I was dropping. In depth instruction on how to make risotto, lessons on how to find the purest saffron, the finest ingredients to stuff my balls with and just lots of laughs with the chef. Again, after making them, I got to eat them... I did damn good! They were so delicious.

You know what the best part of vacations are? Naps. I love naps. They don't fit well into my normal life but travel Adam loves naps.

After resting, I hopped in a taxi and headed down to the waterfront to catch an evening boat cruise I had booked. I got there early so to kill time I facetimed my best friend back home who was babysitting my kitties and took the time to catch up. After we hung up I was looking everywhere and didn't see my boat and just as I was going to start to panic a young woman asked me if I was there to take the boat cruise and if I wanted to come sit with her and her friend. They quickly opened up and I noticed it was an odd pairing; one was a true Miranda-Charlotte blend from NYC and the other quickly reminded me of a younger version of Mila Kunis' character from Bad Moms but only the fun, party version of her. The boat eventually showed up and the sights were beautiful. The water was crystal clear and calm.

Our boat captain did not really meet his AirBNB description... We assumed it would be a bit of a party cruise but he was pretty lame in music/behaviour. Where were the drinks and snacks? Where's the party anthems? Nope. Calm.
Towards the end he handed out some chips, olives, drinks and soft drinks... pretty blah, but hey, I was having a great time with my new friends.

After the boat cruise I went back to my hotel to get changed as I was going to meet Haleigh and Jackie for dinner (my boat friends). As I was going out the door, I stopped to chat with godmother Giusy. *She called me mystery man. I loved her.* She told me all about this really cool cocktail lounge/club down the street, "Morgana", she said it was the hottest place in town and I need to check it out. I rushed out to meet the girls and I was very clearly running on Italian time (what is Italian time? you show up when you show up, no rushing), this didn't bode well with two hungry Americans. All was resolved quickly with caprese salad and bread haha. We feasted on several different pastas and pizzas... Sicilians are just incredible when it comes to food.

After dinner we went to Morgana where as soon as we walked in we fell in love. The entire staff were handsome-dressed, gorgeous men and the walls were all coral-pink with tropical wallpaper accents. This place was eccentric and incredible. We fell in love with the entire vibe of this place. Jackie and I hatched a plan for the next day after she asked me if I wanted to go hike a volcano with her... of course I said yes.

Day 3

Early wake up, dead streets in the wee hour and Jackie running to meet me as we jump in a taxi to go to the train station. We both snoozed on the train to Catania as it was a very early go time. Good thing, because what came next was terrifying...

to be continued...

Paris Escar'got Me. Part 2.

Day 3

Paris was still sleeping and I was awake getting ready in my tea cup sized apartment for a photoshoot. I decided to go with an all white outfit, a warm brown/cream paisley scarf I had bought in Rome the year previous and my trusty tan trench coat. 7am on the M9 through Paris was so quiet and peaceful as I raced to meet the charming photographer, Giuseppe at Trocadero platform. I had booked him to take some shots to memorialize my trip to Paris.

I was instantly mesmerized by the sight of brides and grooms being photographed with the ethereal Eiffel Tower in the background. Again, I think of how many people would have been photographed here since it was finished in 1889 and there I was dressed all in white also, as if I was like Carrie Bradshaw marrying myself. The sky was just barely clear with glimmers of sun & blue sky peering through, the perfect Parisian morning.

Giuseppe came to greet me based on a loose description of what I was wearing and the tiny AirBNB photo he would have seen on my profile. The biggest, brightest smile, effortlessly perfect curls atop his head and dressed simple yet smart for the weather that morning (you know, the type that just pulls off mixing brown leather and suede without looking like a cowboy?)... he couldn't have been more friendly. We were both slightly confused when this dark haired 20-something women started coming towards us dressed as if she was going to a tea party. AirBNB Experiences had managed to have a glitch in their booking and booked her for the exact same time. Giuseppe apologized profusely to the both of us for the mistake but because we were both so laid back about it, we both just laughed and agreed to do this photoshoot session together. Her name was Katharine and she was a pilot from New York but was living/working in Europe, she turned out to be hilarious and helped make me comfortable in posing (we also may have done some pretend engagement style photos haha).

I immediately told Giuseppe my insecurities that I didn't want captured in photos and he was incredibly sweet as he gladly took my notes into consideration. I'm sure he's heard it all but I was so grateful for his approach and never made me feel anything other than special... that's a skill!

After an hour of shooting and having just so much fun with it, it was time for me to zoom back on the metro for my next experience I had booked: Maison Fleuret! I was going to be an artisanal french baker for the morning. Macarons!

My instructor Sara was from Ireland, living in Paris and teaching travellers. She was really sweet, funny and very helpful with my very limited skills (really, no skill at all) as a baker. As always, part of the fun of being involved in group activities when travelling is talking to others; The two girls on University break from Toronto, the couple on a romantic getaway from Georgia, USA and next to me was a fabulous Southern-Californian grandmother dressed impeccably and adorned with Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry as she was visiting her grandson who is studying abroad... she and I hit it off and tried to really help each other make our Macarons look as perfect as can be.

I managed to make pretty okay pink macarons with mango filling and to my shock they were actually edible! Regardless of the taste, it felt like the perfect Parisian activity.

I sauntered back to my AirBNB to get some rest as it was a very early morning and my jetlag was still kicking my ass but of course I needed to take in the sights along the way. After a quick nap, I decided to venture around for the day and explore the Montemartre area. It was one of those rainy-now not rainy-now rainy-now hot and sunny kind of days so it was a perfect day to just bop around aimlessly.

That evening I decided to try out this new-to-me website my friend Davina told me about; she has done far more travel than I have and is always finding cool ways to travel. Eat With gives people unforgettable, immersive culinary experiences. "From home or abroad, join intimate culinary experiences led by passionate hosts and chefs that will take your breath away." I ended up booking a very appropriate dinner for me (I always love true Italian food!) "Italian Dinner with Artists in Montemartre". Lello & Nes were wonderful hosts: Lello was the culinary master for the evening and Nes was the wonderfully eccentric host with the most! Looking over the artististic driven streets of Montemartre was their Van Gogh era apartment. A large bright orange-red bespoke replica of Michelangelo's David stood in the corner of their dining room (Nes had been gifted after doing work for a Fendi fashion show) and a Baroque chandelier hung over the table that was dressed with beautiful china, candelabras, etc. Joining was a great husband and wife couple from Charlotte, North Carolina who were just the epitome of southern charm. The dinner was just one incredible dish after another and so much great conversation. I loved this experience.

Day 4

It was time to figure out exactly what I was doing with my current situation in Paris. I couldn't take much more of the AirBNB... I had to find alternate lodging especially because I had officially decided to scrap the next lag of my trip which was Milan. I jumped onto booking.com and searched for a hotel nearby because I loved the area I was in.

Le Relais du Marais! They even allowed me to check in early and in fact encouraged it when I was messaging with them while booking. I packed up my stuff and left the tiny-less-than-ideal AirBNB and walked around the corner to the hotel. Upon check-in I had asked the front desk agent if she knew of a great salon as I desperately wanted a haircut and she helped me get an appointment booked for later that day. She told me once I get settled in my room that I should get my stuff together for the day and go explore... (She was actually pretty clear with me that one of the massive protests was going to be happening that day just outside the hotel and to get out of the area). It was pretty evident that something was going to happen as when I left the hotel the streets were lined with police vehicles and police everywhere.

I headed over to Franck Provost and got my hair cut... what a glorious feeling it was to have my hair properly washed after a few days. I'm a pretty high maintenance hair client (surprise, surprise) in the way that I usually get a touch up from my barber every week to stay fresh and well kept. The stylist did a perfect job even though we weren't able to fluidly communicate, she did great.

Leaving the hair appointment I came across a tattoo place and they had a sign welcoming walk-in appointments so I decided to go in. I ended up getting a cute minimalist line tattoo of two cats for my two cats at home that my incredible friend Kathryn was taking care of: Harry Winston Donnelly & Sally Field Donnelly (get it, when Harry met Sally?). The tattoo artist did a perfect job, exactly what I wanted and she was done in 20 minutes.. it was perfect.

I spent the rest of the day just eating my way through beautiful patisseries, incredible restaurants and shopping for little souvenirs. I made my way towards this fun little Canadian pub that my client Becky had told me about from years before when she traveled to Paris. I was on a bit of a booze cleanse at the time I arrived in Europe so I sat and had a non-alcoholic Heineken while watching passers-by (of course while taking a selfie to send to Becky haha).

A very good friend of mine, Rebecca, who is essentially the modern day Carmen Sandiego was going to be flying in that evening from London for a quick less-than-24-hour trip to see me in Paris. Knowing it would be a late night I went back to my hotel to take a nap. In my travels back to my hotel I noticed this massive statue from 1883 at Republique had been defaced during the protests that day with "MACRON DEMISSION!". Paris had been faced with a lot of protests/riots at this time... but as the locals said... when are they not!? Turns out, I had great timing... I had missed the protest, which was great because I definitely needed a nap.

After a few flight delays and a frustrated Becca, she finally arrived in Paris at about 11pm haha. I raced on the metro down to her hotel and sat in the funky Roy Lichtenstein-esque inspired lobby and gave her the biggest hug as she came in. The man behind the bar down in the hotel lobby said as long as we wanted he would keep open for us... so we stayed up chatting until 3am and he even made us a pizza haha.

Day 5

The line-up at Cafe de Flore is always long but Rebecca and I decided to at the least give it a try and within two minutes a server grabbed us out of the line and took us right in because they had a two-top available. Simple white china adorned with 'Cafe de Flore" and rich espressos, we perused the menu while surrounded by haunting history within the walls of the historic cafe. After the First World War crowds flocked to the neighbouring cafe, Les Deux Magots, to glimpse celebrities while the more leftest literary types like Ernest Hemingway, Maurice Merleau-Ponty and Jean-Paul Sartre *(amongst many others) would spend entire days treating the landmark as their "office".

After fueling ourselves with a rich french brunch to combat our late night and then early rise (Rebecca being much more used to that as a mother of three kids), we were off to explore Paris together. We set our sites at the Rodin Museum.

Originally the Hotel Biron, the Rodin Museum houses the beautiful works of Auguste Rodin (1840-1917). It is an incredibly ornate museum and every room more luxurious than the next. We spent a couple hours going through the galleries and enjoying the elaborate grounds. The museum and grounds are maintained with nothing but the highest integrity.

Once we finished at the museum, we wandered the streets of the 7th arrondisement until we worked our way eventually to the Champ de Mars where it was swarmed with people enjoying the Eiffel Tower and all the life happening around it. We hopped on a tuk-tuk and headed up to Trocadero so that we would be at a convenient Uber location for my dear friend to catch an Uber. We grabbed Aperol Spritz' (mine was non-alcoholic) and charcuterie at Cafe du Trocadero, a perfect spot to people watch and talk.

After Rebecca zoomed back to the airport I went back to my hotel for a nap. When I woke up I texted my friend Evelyn to see if she wanted to grab dinner and we set up a plan to meet up to find a restaurant. We are both the same in the way we like to keep it affordable but definitely authentic. We started in the Marais and strolled along reading every restaurant menu along the way until we eventually reached the Latin Quarter.

La Cochonnaille was just a little hole-in-the-wall restaurant tucked into an alleyway in the 5th arrondissement just past Pont Saint-Michel. The waiter/owner was a tall very older gentleman and he let us look over the outside menu until we finally decided to stay for dinner. When I took the walking tour of Paris a few days before the tour guide, Johann, told our group that it is actually proper to put your elbows on the table to show you were engaged in conversation with your dinner guest; this wasn't difficult as Evelyn was a very engaging person. This unassuming restaurant was probably one of the better meals I had in Paris. Delicious breads, scrumptious escargot, mouthwatering steak and of course a traditional creme brule paired with rich espresso. Having dinner in the streets of Paris just feels rich with traditional customs.

From there we went to a famous jazz club located in a perfectly dim basement of a historic building: Caveau de la Huchette. I'm not overly a jazz enthusiast but it just felt like the place to be. The band was incredible and we noticed something right away that we loved... Everyone danced, old dancing with young, traditional swing dancing, smiles galore, passion and fun. It was charming and perfect. A fantastic night in Paris.

Day 5

A simple breakfast at my hotel while booking my tickets for Musee D'Orsay as per recommendation from my dear client, Susan. She told me when she visited Paris it was her favourite museum so I knew I had to go.

Van Gogh, Manet, Redon, Renoir, Degas, Tissot and the reason I was there, Monet and his famed painting of water lilies. ""Nymphaea" is the botanical name for a water lily. Monet grew white water lilies in the water garden he had installed in his property at Giverny in 1893. From the 1910s until he died in 1926, the garden and its pond in particular, became the artist's sole source of inspiration. He said: "I have come back to things that are impossible to do: water with weeds waving in the depths. Apart from painting and gardening, I am good for nothing. My greatest masterpiece is my garden."
Eliminating the horizon and the sky, Monet focused on a small area of the pond, seen as a piece of nature, almost a close-up. No details stand out and the overall impression is one of a shapeless surface. The square format reinforces the neutrality of the composition. The lack of a frame of reference gives the fragment an infinite, limitless feeling.
Never was the artist's brushstroke so free, so detached from the description of forms. A close-up view of the canvas gives a feeling of total abstraction, because the brushstrokes are stronger than the identification of the plants or their reflections. The viewer has to make a constant visual and mental effort to piece together the landscape suggested in the painting. The unfinished borders accentuate this insistence on painting as a surface covered with paint, which was not lost on artists after the Second World War, particularly American painters exploring "abstract landscapes" and "lyrical abstraction."" - Musee D’Orsay

I felt so peaceful leaving Musee D'Orsay. Have you ever felt like you were floating? I had no plans, no destination in mind, just open and peaceful. I walked and walked, taking in some of my final beauty moments of a sunny spring day in Paris. I walked and I walked. Peaceful. Well, it was peaceful until I walked right into Galeries Lafayette Haussmann in the 9th arr. I was just window shopping and taking in the luxurious fashions until I stumbled into Dolce & Gabbana. The knock-your-socks-off stunning man working immediately had my attention and somehow talked me into, making a purchase... god, he was beautiful haha.

Remember Johann? The phenomenal tour guide I had at the beginning of the week? He got ahold of me to tell me that he was doing a tour of Montmartre that evening so I booked in.

It was a much smaller group this time around: just me and a couple visiting from New Zealand. I lit a candle at Sacre-Coeur, had incredible Macarons from Carette, saw the birthplace of the word "bistro", listened to a musician who had a handsome tuxedo cat sitting on his accordion while he played (who looked so much like my Harry boy back home!), pretended I was Emily in Paris out front of the made-mainstream-famous La Maison Rose and stood outside the residence where Van Gogh lived when he was in Paris. It was a heart warming tour of the artsy district of the city. I loved it.

For the first five minutes on the hour after dusk, the Eiffel Tower does a sparkling light show and I decided this would be the perfect evening to take it in. I knew this ride well on the metro now, so well that I didn't even have to map it out. I made it to the Trocadero platform just before 10pm and there on the platform out in the open air with crowds galore was a man with a keyboard playing and singing beautifully a cover of the song "Until I Found You" by Stephen Sanchez, in a humble way it brought me to quiet tears. I chose to experience the light show specifically on this day because it was the anniversary of my grandfather's passing and something special to connect with him in some cosmic way.

Afterwards I took a long walk back to my hotel so that I could experience the sights of the "city of light" at night. I grabbed a very late dinner at a restaurant I had visited a couple times just across from my hotel which was aptly named "La Favorite". Delicious truffle pasta and an ice cold 0.0% beer... It was exactly what I needed after an emotional experience.

Day 6

The last day was a perfect day to spend some time in the Marais area. Shops that stood the test of time, tea shopping at Mariage Freres, sipping espresso in cafes and a delicious lunch at Les Philosophes. Fragrant chicken curry that still has my mouth watering.

Then it was off to pick up a few little souvenirs and shop for glasses at the adorable and stylish "Le Petit Lunetiere" before heading back to my hotel and packing while it poured rain outside.


Every time I travel, I always say how a place has changed me but it's true. Every experience in life changes us. Seeing the life, love and passion of Paris and truly allowing myself to be present within the glorious city... It changed me. I already can't wait to go back.

"Breathe in Paris, it nourishes the soul" - Victor Hugo

Paris Escar'got Me. Part 1.

Paris is a world all of its own and I felt like the city was there just waiting for me. Just call me Ernest Heming... I mean Yves Saint Laur... I mean Brigitte Bard... Ah, forget it, I'm just another Emily in Paris, at best but with less colorful outfits and no luck in love. I did however stumble across Helen Mirren having a spot of tea at the famous Cafe Flore... Ok, maybe it was just another attractive 'perennial' beauty but it really did look like the 77 year old Oscar winner (I'm still telling myself it was her.).

Funny enough, Paris was never really on my bucket list but now it is definitely on my must return list, possibly again and again (& again...). I truly fell in love with the vibe of the city. For years now many people have said to me they always found Paris dirty and unfriendly: Um, what!? Where were you? This was not at all my take-away. It is a city rich with culture, beauty, extravagance, art, history, culinary treasure and pride... so much so that I stayed longer than intended. I originally planned on going from Paris to Milan and then onward to Sicily and finish off my travels in Budapest; but I just couldn't bring myself to leave Paris so I ended up scrapping Milan and staying in the city of light a few days more.

When I arrived in Paris the weather was just a little grey and the drive from the airport didn't give me much to look at as I ventured to my interesting AirBNB in the 3rd arrondissement. Tucked away in the back of a hotel were all these little capsule-like "apartments" where I had booked to stay while in the city. I opened the door to my AirBNB and boom! That's it, there was the tour... I'm totally cool with tiny spaces but I mean this was tinnnyyyyyyy. A very narrow seated couch with a clunky murphy bed tucked behind it, a window looking into the hotel rooms across and a bathroom that doubled as a "kitchen"/closet/everything else. In my everyday life I generally wouldn't be described as chill but when travelling it's as if I take on a new persona and it's the chill travel guy... If only that could translate into every day life. I originally took it in stride and just kept in mind that it was just a place to sleep. My friend Judith warned me it sounded too good of a price to be fully worth it, but we'll get to that.

Anyhow, after dropping my things off and resting for a few minutes after flying all night it was time to explore the area and take care of a few travel duties. I immediately turned the corner from my hotel and there I was faced with alluring historic buildings with floral facades for spring... I was immediately stunned by the beauty. I had no direction in mind, I just walked... right into a tobacco shop; European Adam smokes. I found a typical french cafe, ordered crepes and a double espresso, cracked open the cigarettes and began people watching while sipping the hot, dark brown, caffeinated fuel I so desperately needed. I quickly realized I was being watched by tourists going by... did I look like I belonged? In my head I did, just call me Simone de Beauvoir.

I clambered to google translate while cross referencing a couple search engines because I didn't want to be mistaken for a rude tourist (not yet anyway, that part is still to come...), so that I knew how to properly ask for the bill. One finger in the air while making eye contact with the server was the way I read to get their attention. "Excusez-moi, l'addition s'il vous plait"... He smiled back and brought it right over to me. *I did it! I'm like a cool parisien now! *delusional*. When I was paying he spoke directly to me in english... dammit, he caught on... I'm not a cool french guy.

I walked around for a little while longer until I came across this small looking church with a set of staging/stairs looking at the face of it... what was everyone looking at so intently? There's just a bunch of storyboards around this thing. Notre-Dame... I was looking at what stands today of the iconic Notre-Dame. Clueless (& jet lagged). I'm apparently ignorant as hell because I just assumed it was fully rebuilt and that I would see this monstrous Catholic church in my travels but with it only being partially reconstructed it appeared so little ( only compared to the vision in my head). Someday I'll get back when it's fully erected and live out my Esmeralda fantasy because what little gay boy didn't dream of being an animated Disney character?

Anyhow, I won't bore anyone with the monotonous duties I took care of like shopping for a flat iron and setting up my European sim card but what I will say is, it is very easy to lose track of time in Paris. I had tickets to the Louvre for 4pm, they closed at 6pm and it was currently 3:40pm (if I were properly European I would have said 16:00, 18:00 & 15:40... but alas, I'm further proving my uncoolness). I found a nearby cab and demanded he take me to the Louvre, yes, I said demanded. What an asshole I turned out to be. He thought about it while driving about 3 metres and then pulled over and screamed at me to get the hell out. Yup, I did it now, I pulled a rude tourist move... I should have started with bonjour and maybe threw in a s'il vous plait. What a prick I was. Hanging my head in shame as I exited the car, I mapped out my path to the louvre... and I ran... like hell... I'm not a runner. If you don't know me I am a bit of a husky guy but I prefer to say 'thique' because people get butt hurt when you say fat haha. Not a runner. I did it though, I made it to the Louvre at about 4:25 (ugh, I mean 16:25).

They say it would take about sixty-five days to see everything in the Louvre if you spent one minute looking at each piece. I thankfully knew not to plan to see too much and just know to come back again (& again & again) in the future. I raced up several staircases to get to the Mona Lisa. Yes, I'm basic, the most basic if you will. It's the one piece in the museum you have to enter essentially a corral and wait your turn patiently. After about 25 minutes of waiting patiently, I made it to the front... I truly felt that movie magic moment where the sounds around me dulled completely and I felt like I was alone with one of the most famous paintings in the world. I knew I wasn't but for about 10 seconds I lived that way. I then just decided to take my time and saunter through one of the sculpture galleries on my way out. The Louvre is a magical place, I'll know how to plan better next time.

I wish I could tell you I had some sort of magical dinner that first night but I found a local grocery store on my walk home and picked up bananas, apples, raisins and nuts; I was going back to my AirBNB to crash out of exhaustion, I would do better tomorrow I told myself.

Day 2

Have you ever tried to sleep on a weight bench? That's essentially what I slept on, a couch which resembled a train seat. I had to sleep with all my clothes on and not touch the bedding because once I pulled the murphy bed down from the wall I was taken aback by the overwhelming artificial smell of fabric refresher: the bedding wasn't washed. Anyhow, I knew I made a mistake by booking the cheapest AirBNB in central Paris but it was just a place to keep my stuff and try and sleep. I just had to not think about it, for now.

I'll take a shower and that'll make me feel better! Nope. I grabbed a towel and was hit in the face with that moldy smell, you know, the one you smell in any cis-gendered straight 20-something guys apartment?... They weren't well washed. Fuck it, I'm going to "wash" myself with the baby wipes I keep in my luggage for emergency sake. I searched high and low and even did some mild contortion acts to be sure there were not sights of bed bugs, thankfully not.

Au Chien Qui Fume, what a beautiful restaurant. Spring in Paris, so of course it was adorned with stunning pink and purple flowers all over the facade. I grabbed a seat and had a delightful brunch right there in the picturesque Les Halles area. Cigarettes, double espresso and croques-madames, picture-perfect Paris brunch.

I truly focused on not using my phone too much on this trip and kept signed out of social media as a general rule while out and about, I most definitely wasn't scrolling/reading posts. I turned all social messaging off (I despise social media messages, I prefer to communicate by phone, text, email or whatsapp... just as a side note). It was nice to sit and just watch the people around me, the action in the street, listen to the sounds of the area and fully be in the moment.

I fell madly in love with an area called Saint-Germain-des-Pres. This was where my activity of the day was starting off. I met the wonderful Australian expat tour guide, Johann, right at the Saint-Germain-des-Pres metro stop along with some other travelers. The last one to arrive for the 40-stop walking tour was who turned out to be my new friend, Evelyn. She was visiting from Canada as well and we became fast friends.

If you're ever visiting Paris, I would have to recommend this incredible walking tour. Johann (along with his fiance and business partner, Claire) really gives a super informative, fun and engaging tour of some highlights of Paris. History, culture, life and landmarks, I loved it. Johann and Claire have been living in Paris for ten years and truly embrace everything about life in the city so it is wonderful to have their local perspective as well as from a travellers eye. This tour takes you through the charming neighbourhoods of Paris to take in the classic monuments and hidden gems. Included in this tour are 40 gems of Paris, including must-see monuments like the Arc de Triumphe, Notre Dame, Pantheon & more. It was truly one of the best tours I have taken in all my years of travelling because it felt so personal and engaging.

As we finished up the tour, our group took a metro to some station called "Trocadero"... but why was it the busiest metro station I had seen up to this point in Paris? Johann guided us across the street to this statue of a man riding a horse and he began to tell us the history of it. He had such a captivating way about him so of course we listened with eager ears until he finally looked at us all and stopped talking: "I'm just kidding, turn around". There, for the first time, I saw the Eiffel Tower. Something overwhelming came over me, not like an anxious overwhelming, just like I was seeing something so monumentous that I couldn't help but react with tears. I thought I was hiding it well behind my ray-bans but I forgot that although I am botoxed to the high heavens, my lower face still moves and my whole mouth was quivering. Johann and some fellow travellers with us gave me a big hug. Whenever I see a famous landmark I always think of those who stood in my steps throughout history seeing it from the same lens in which I was standing. That is one of those memories you don't soon forget.

After exploring the Eiffel Tower closer with Evelyn (Vancouver, British Columbia), Julia (Cologne, Germany) & Marco (Cologne, Germany) we sent off our congenial German friends and decided to go grab dinner. Evelyn and I decided to go to the famous Le Relais de l'Entrecote in Montparnasse (this is the original location)! This restaurant serves just one option for your entree: Steak & Fries. You can not make a reservation, you wait patiently in line with everyone else. We waited about 45-50mins in line but didn't really mind because we were surrounded by magificient views all around. Waitresses dressed in black dresses with white collars, very reminiscient of what you'd imagine would be the dress of a female server in 1940's Paris. Old world charm. The meal was so simple, the service so fast, efficient and friendly, the dessert delectable and an experience I was glad to have had. Getting to know Evelyn was also a great perk of the dinner. I always enjoy befriending like-minded travellers along my journeys.

Stay tuned for much, much more...

Lisboa. Tiles, Smiles & Pasteis de Nata. Part Two/Finale.

Day 5

Anyone who knows me knows how much I love shoes, they are something I can never have too many of and always enjoy buying when I'm away. I had in my head on this trip that I was going to find the perfect pair of simple, clean lined black leather mules and I had already looked all over Rome (when in reality everyone knows you shop in Florence for proper leather goods if you’ve been to Italy) the week before but I was determined I'd find them in Lisbon.

My Brazilian friend decided he'd take me out to a huge proper mall. We had a quick breakfast back at Fabrica de Nata and then it was on the train out to Centro Colombo & Vasco da Gama Shopping Center. He & I searched every store and he was so sweet trying to grasp my vision but nothing was what I pictured that was until just when we had given up we found a single shoe store that had a pair!... Unfortunately, even after overcoming the laziest sales associates, we had every box pulled down to try and find the right fit but alas my feet are just so damned big that they didn't have any that fit. (I, still to this day, haven't found a pair.)

It wasn't the end of the world, we at least had a fun day together shopping around and taking a walk through some beautiful large outdoor art installations and of course walking along the waters edge. We eventually made our way back on the train and he went about his day and I decided to wander the streets of Chiado going in and out of shops for more retail therapy and enjoying the street art along the way.

Remember Prasad? The photographer I had hired for some photos? He had highly recommended I take his friend Ruthy's food tour: Lisbon's Best Flavors [IG]. I jumped at this opportunity and booked this fantastic AirBNB experience for that afternoon. This was a food tour through the glorious neighborhood of Alfama.

Back to Miradouro das Portas do Sol as it was usually the best meeting spot for any group activity. Ruthy was there dressed in bright red and all the other travelers gathered around her. We started our round of introductions with each other and in the large group was this young couple who turned out to be from Quispamsis, New Brunswick (15 minute drive from my home)! Ruthy was definitely the epitome of an expert guide; Before we made our way to the first stop she took us down into this archway down the stairs from our meeting point where an artist had painted in comic book style sequence the history of Lisbon. She talked to us about the historic earthquakes that occured on the morning of November 1st, 1755. These very serious series of earthquakes destroyed much of the port, the city and unfortunately killed an estimated 60,000 people. She also showed us some very impressive sights that managed to survive the monumentous natural disaster some 267 years prior.

Our first food stop was a little wine bar that in fact had a wall in the back of the bar that was actually made from salvaged material from the earthquakes of 1755 where we got to experience some delightful vinho verde. Vamos ao Algarve was our next stop where we had delicious fish cakes and rice as well as scrumptious sardines on homemade crostinis, then it was off to Murato for an incredible octopus salad and other various delicacies. I wish I documented all the places but instead I encourage you to take this tour if ever in Lisbon... actually, I encourage you to book a trip specifically around this food tour in Alfama. We had incredible cheeses, chorizo, ginja and so much more... including, of course, Pasteis de Nata.

Not only did I build a great rapport with our energetic/engaging tour guide, I also ended up befriending two outgoing ladies who were visiting from Anguilla and we made plans to hang out later that night. Tish & Rochelle wanted a good night out in my neighbourhood as I was staying in the liveliest area so I was more than happy to oblige!

A friend from home, the infamous sommelier Craig Pinhey, had highly suggested I check out this fabulous little wine bar which funny enough turned out to be just downstairs from my apartment. The Old Pharmacy Wine Inn was converted from an early 20th century pharmacy but actually retained most of the original decor. They had an extensive wine selection to choose from so the ladies and I shared a few bottles and some flavorsome snacks. It was a great spot to start our night. Then it was time to dance! We stumbled our way down the street to Friends Bairro Alto. This fabulous LGBTQIA+ friendly nightclub is the best place to dance, hang with friends, make new ones and just feel mutually accepted. We instantly made friends with a whole group of people and danced our hearts out while sharing laughs. I even met a really great guy who ended up becoming a fantastic friend; Laz, a graduate student at NYU (fun fact, at his graduation when he got back, Taylor Swift was to speak!), who was on spring break. Before I went back home Laz and I made plans to hit up the famous Pastéis de Belém the next morning.

Day 6

Laz and I met up at the train station very early in the morning to beat the rumored crowds that usually line up outside the famous bakery. We arrived right at opening and got right in to Pastéis de Belém. My friend Dee had told me before I left that it had to be a MUST on my trip and I was so glad I made it. As a result of the 1820 liberal revolution, all convents and monasteries in Portugal were shut down in 1834, the clergy and labourers expelled. In an attempt at survival, someone from the monastery offered sweet pastries for sale in the shop; pastries that rapidly became known as 'Pastéis de Belém'.

Mouth orgasm. That's the only way to describe these absolutely incredible sweet pastries. I could have cried because they were THAT good... or maybe because I was so hungover haha. All other Pastéis I had eaten up to this point just would never amount anything close to these.

We finally pulled ourselves away even though it was difficult to do so because we could have probably feasted all day. We popped online and grabbed tickets for the Jerónimos Monastery next door. The lineup was long but it moved very quickly and I was so lucky to have Laz who has an incredible wealth of knowledge of all things history. This monastery is an important example of Manueline, or Portuguese Late Gothic architecture. As we walked through, Laz explained some things in regards to the history/religion that totally blew me away and at the same time I felt I should have known from growing up in the Catholic church.

After we toured through the notable building, we grabbed a train back to the waterfront and walked back up to Bairro Alto to meet a friend of his for lunch at A Cevicheria. Although a casual Peruvian spot serving ceviche & seafood dishes with an Asian twist, hanging above the bar was a humongous octupus which was very cool. We had some incredible, fresh ceviche with the tastiest pisco sours I had ever had. We hung onto every word our server said and totally let them decide what we were to have that day for lunch.

We said goodbye to our lunch date and headed to Castelo de S. Jorge. *São Jorge Castle, sometimes known in English as Saint George's Castle, is a historic castle in the Portuguese capital of Lisbon, located in the freguesia of Santa Maria Maior. Human occupation of the castle hill dates to at least the 8th century BC while the first fortifications built date from the 1st century BC. It served as a royal Moorish residence, until Portugal's first king, Afonso Henriques, captured it in 1147 with the help of northern European crusaders on their way to the Holy Land. It was later dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of England, commemorating the Anglo-Portuguese pact dating from 1371, and became the royal palace until another one (that was destroyed in the Great Earthquake) was built in today's Comercio Square.

*trigger warning
We walked around the castle walls taking in the breathtaking views of old and new Lisbon. What a stark contrast. When standing on a castle wall, my friend explained to me the psychology of HPP (High Place Phenomenon). Have you ever been walking near the edge of a cliff when suddenly, for no apparent reason, you felt the urge to jump? You're not actually going to do it but it's a weird psycholigical feeling that many experience and because it was so windy we decided to get down and walk around the grounds.

Peacocks! They were everywhere. The male peacocks are the beautiful ones that fan their tail feathers out showcasing the stunning details of their majestic bodies. These mesmerizing birds surround the gardens, hangout in the olive/cork trees or just flaunt around. I even got up close and personal with a couple.

Once we finished up around the grounds we worked our way back down to Alfama where I caught an Uber back to my AirBNB for a much needed nap.

That evening Laz, a new friend of his from B.C. and I ran through the torrential rain to a restaurant for dinner, unfortunately I had to cut it short because after traveling for almost two weeks my body started shutting down and I was getting a little sick.

I drugged myself to sleep with melatonin and popped earplugs in to try and kick the illness.

Day 7


Unfortunately in the morning I was still a little queasy so I ventured down to the pharmacy where they gave my something to settle myself and may or may not gave me some sort of valium haha.

Once I felt a little better I grabbed some Pho at a great Vietnamese place close to my apartment because it always helps me feel better. Boa Bao is such a fantastic restaurant nestled between Bairro Alto and Baixa. The restaurant itself is beautiful and the food is incredible.

I planned on just taking it easy on this day because it was my last day in Lisbon and the weather wasn't optimal. I shopped for a few last minute things and as I walked past this elaborate store for probably the 20th time, it was time I finally had to stop in: Vista Alegre. This particular location was near my apartment and in the window they had the most beautiful china with the illustrations of Lisbon painted on them. I had eyed one particular plate every day that I walked by and I finally bit the bullet and went in to buy it. Vista Alegre's boutique in Lisbon beautifully showcases the pieces made at the workshops in Ílhavo, all harmoniously combining tradition with modernity. Founded in 1824, Vista Alegre is known for its creativity, technical expertise and craftsmanship. Everytime I look at this plate it brings back so much joy. It is the rooftops of Alfama which makes me remember standing at Miradouro das Portas do Sol on Easter Sunday and looking out over the city that would soon capture my heart. *[See my plate here]

I went back to my apartment to finish packing and getting everything ready to travel home when suddenly my doorbell rang. It was my Brazilian friend, he surprised me and took me by train to Cascais, Portugal.
*Cascais is a coastal resort town in Portugal, just west of Lisbon. It’s known for its sandy beaches and busy marina. The old town is home to the medieval Nossa Senhora da Luz Fort and the Citadel Palace, a former royal retreat.

The weather was dreary still but it didn't matter, the town was so enchanting. We walked on the silk like sand on the beach in the rain and just looked around at the alluring architecture. Eventually making our way to a splendid little Indian restaurant, we had a great dinner together. Flavour was just a short walk from Cascais Quay and had such mouthwatering food. It was a great last meal in Portugal.

After dinner we walked through some shops and then this little art studio caught my eye: Toranja. This brand is a fabulous Portugese treasure. Toranja takes the work of designers, illustrators and photographers and turns them into great take home products. I happened to be in the right place at the right time as this was their opening day. I found two large posters by the artist Nuno Martinho and instantly knew I had to have them. "Beco do Surra" & "Belém Window".

With my purchases tucked under my arm, we walked the beautiful prominades of Cascais back to the train station and back to Lisbon.

I'll never forget that melancholy feeling of sitting in my apartment reliving in my head everything I had just experienced in the last two weeks.

Tears rolled down my face as I just lived with gratitude; I kayaked on Lake Albano below the pope's summer residence, I cooked with the incomporable Fulvia in her kitchen in Olgiata, rode horse a top mountains in Tivoli, sailed into the sunset along the Tejo river, toured story book palaces in Sintra, stood in the winds of Europe's most western point of Cabo da Roca, danced all night with friends from all over the world in a tiny club in Bairro Alto and most importantly met people who will live in my memories for a lifetime.

Quem não arrisca não petisca. *Those who do not risk, do not benefit.

Lisboa. Tiles, Fado & Pasteis de Nata. Part One.

My day started in the wee waking hour of 3am gathering my things in my apartment in Rome and hopping into an Uber to head to Ciampino Airport. It was a different airport experience because instead of scanning my passport I had to scan my EU Covid-19 passport… oh the trauma we don’t even realize fully yet. Arriving at Humberto Delgado Airport was surreal; I quickly started googling translating some common Portugese phrases so that I didn't appear rude for not even trying. I collected my luggage and hopped into a taxi to head to my AirBNB in the busy district of Bairro Alto.

Day 1

My AirBNB hosts were gracious enough to allow me to leave my things with the cleaning people because I was way too early to check in and the previous renters had just left. I dropped my things and headed down the street to a cute little park "Praça Luís de Camões" where after traveling all morning from Rome to Lisbon, I was starving and feasted on Pasteis de Nata and a delicious sandwich... However, thinking back it probably wasn't all that yummy but when you haven't eaten in 12hrs anything is delicious haha.

Surrounded by sun, bustling street cars, beautiful tile work on the buildings and gorgeous people, I was officially in Lisbon (Lisboa), Portugal. I had a while to wait still, so not far from the park was a sauna/spa so I went for a little rest, recharge and most importantly shower. Great spot to kill time haha.

Finally, I checked into my AirBNB and took a little disco nap before my first booked experience in Lisbon: a sunset sail on the Tagus (Tejo) River.

Before I headed to the meeting point of Padrão dos Descobrimentos, I found a quiet little patio at Cafe Candeias and had a delicious, fresh assortment of cheeses, meats and delectable tapinades as well as fabulous local wine... All for such little money, I couldn't get over how inexpensive Lisbon was!

After my little snack I hopped in a taxi and made my way to the meeting point. While I waited to board the sailboat, I sat on the rivers edge and just basked in the sun watching sailboats go by. The three young guys that were running the sailing charter got everyone on board, gave us blankets, endless amounts of vino verde and snacks. As we embarked on our sail, I noticed on the other side of the river was a Christ statue much like the one that is in Rio, Brazil: Cristo Rei stands high above the southern banks of the Tejo Estuary, and depicts Christ with arms raised, blessing the city. This felt appropriate as the following day would be Easter Sunday. Sitting next to me on the stern of the boat was a lovely, friendly couple visiting from Brussels, they were just in for the weekend and loved sailing. This was such a beautiful view of Lisbon from the water; the Champalimaud Foundation, Belem Tower, the National Museum of Ancient Art, Belem Cultural Center, Discovery Monument, Belem Palace Gardens, Jeronimos Monastery, the Electricity Museum, the April 25 Bridge, Ribiera Market, Ajuda National Palace, Empire Square, Commerce Square and the pier columns. Once we reached the end of what they wanted to show us on the tour down the river, they turned the boat and we sailed back into the sunset. It was an overwhelming feeling of calm, beauty and gratitude. It was a feeling I'll never forget, meditative almost.

Once we docked I jumped into one of the infamous tuk-tuks that are used for getting around the beautiful city and I face-timed my sister while I laughed at the rickety ride and caught up a bit while we worked our way back to my apartment in Bairro Alto... which I quickly realized, I was staying in the party district haha.

I met up with a new friend I had made earlier in the day who was visiting from Toronto and we journeyed our way through the bars and pubs along the way. Shots - 1€, Caipirinha - 3€, laughs - free. I had so much fun talking about travel, life and everything in between with a fellow Canadian chum.

Day 2

Easter Sunday!

With over 100+ Catholic churches in Lisbon, it is known to be one of the largest Catholic capitals in Europe per capita.

How did I decide to celebrate? Well, I took a tuk-tuk tour of the city built on Fado music. Accompanying me on this delightful tour given by the high-spirited Paulo were two vivacious retired teachers from South Carolina. Rafael met us at the bustling Avenida da Liberdade. I love these rustic, rickety golf cart-like tuk-tuks haha... you really get to feel the streets! Our first stop after a quick drive by the famous Santa Justa Lift was at the Lisbon Cathedral where Easter Sunday mass was starting; although I grew up proper Catholic I no longer subscribe to organized religion but am fascinated with religious ritualism which always draws me to places of worship all over the world. I got a huge kick out of the two southern belles with me on the tour, they were so polite that every person selling wares in the streets totally suckered them into buying absolutely everything... they were adorable and so sweet. Next up was the Museu de Lisboa Teatro Romano, which is a theatre dating back to 1st century AD. It was so cool to see this archaeological wonder! Afterwards we went to Miradouro da Senhora do Monte which is a stunning observation point in a churchyard and gives one of the most panoramic views of the city. What did I do at this glorious lookout? I found a Pasteis de Nata vendor and got my daily fix alongside a delicious street espresso. Then it was off to Miradouro das Portas do Sol (which ended up being a meeting point for many more experiences on my trip in Lisbon) where I purchased some artwork, took some selfies and found some more espresso haha. Alfama! The oldest area of Lisbon, was our next stop and my favourite area. I noticed right away while going through the little alleyways that there were little plaques along the way with pictures of people on them and no write-ups so I asked Paulo what the story was. He told me that these were people who are respected in the area and proceeded to share with me that the older people in Alfama are highly respected and because of that their rents are kept low so that they can remain in their longtime homes. We got to experience Ginja at a traditional Ginjinha, climb the walls of the smallest alleyway in the city and the final stop was at the incredible Time Out Market on the waterfront.

Friends from home told me about this glorious market from their times in Lisbon so I was excited to take Jim, Rae & Victoria's recommendation. The point of the global branded Time Out Market is to allow visitors the opportunity to experience some of the best spots of the city in which it's located. Let me say, I ate my way through that market, so many delicious specialties to try!

After a bustling morning of playing tourist I made my way back to my apartment for a little nap and then I decided to head back to the sauna/spa in my neighbourhood for a little relax/recharge. This time I ended up meeting a really sweet, kind and hospitable (& cute haha) Brazilian expat who had moved to Portugal a few years prior to study. He took me to a little Brazilian restaurant and showed me what a traditional meal of his home looked like. Once we had our fill of delectable goodness, we took a walk around Chiado and down to the waterfront where I was a typical tourist and grabbed myself one of the big hollowed out pineapples filled with alcohol and then we just sat and watched the boats go by and talked all evening.

Day 3

Sintra!

I was so excited for this day and it did not disappoint. Back at Avendida da Liberdade, I found a cute ornate cafe, Fabrica de Nata, where I grabbed a delicious cappucino and some avocado toast... and a Pasteis de Nata, of course. Once fueled up I met up with my tour mates and our energetic guide, Duarte (IG: @keepitlocaltours) [see AirBNB experience here]. Rachel, the teacher from the U.S. who decided to take her skills, education and experience to Valencia, Spain. Daniel the renewable energy developer & private pilot who goes between Amsterdam, Houston & Tokyo. Ellen & Joe the incredible personal trainers from NYC. Alex & his daughter Sophie from Connecticut who are avid travelers and viral TikTok stars. What a bunch! This crew was so fun to explore Sintra with. Ethereal gardens, storybook castles/palaces and some of the most remarkable nature scenes I've ever seen throughout Regaleira Palace and its small villages surrounding.

We shared lunch at Pensão Sisudo, which is a quaint restaurant in the heart of Sintra owned by a friend of Daurte's family. We had a full, gorgeous meal of soup, rice & beans, salad, fish, dessert and all with wine for 20€! Incredible. The lady who owned the restaurant was the one who served us and she truly loved having travelers in her establishment.

After lunch it was back in the van and off to Praja da Adraga, a private-ish beach on the Atlantic Ocean with crashing waves, shimmering sands and captivating views. We hung out here and took photos, talked, laughed and before leaving popped into the little beach hut for some shots for one of the travelers birthdays. Being from a city that sits on a bay off the Atlantic Ocean it was kind of a symbiotic feeling for me to be back on the same ocean but from another continent.

We then made our way to the windiest place I've ever been... The most western point of Europe: Cabo Da Roca. *Cabo da Roca or Cape Roca is a cape which forms the westernmost point of the Sintra Mountain Range, of mainland Portugal, of continental Europe, and of the Eurasian landmass. It is situated in the municipality of Sintra, near Azóia, in the southwest of the district of Lisbon.

We walked along the cliffs, laughing at how we could barely stand in these winds and just marveled in awe of the landscape, the ocean and agriculture.

As we worked our way back to Lisbon we stopped to take in more charming spots to relish in the gorgeous natural surroundings including an enchanted misty forest and Duarte surprised us with delicious sweet treats from a local bakery to finish it off.

Once I got back, rested & showered, I met up with Ellen, Joe and Daniel from the Sintra tour at Tapas 52 for dinner. Grilled octopus, sardines, salads, meatballs, eggplant and more... We had a delicious meal and a few bottles of wine while we talked about our adventures. We then went bar hopping and enjoyed our time together while galavanting around Bairro Alto.

Day 4

My friend Gray & her husband Matt said one of the best things they had done for themselves on their travel through Lisbon was to hire a photographer to give them photos to remember for a lifetime. She suggested the photographer they used and I jumped at the opportunity. Prasad (IG: @shootmelisboa) was wonderful, he met me up in Miradouro das Portas do Sol just after sunrise so that the streets were quiet and we weren't fighting through tourists to get the great shots he had planned. He made me feel so comfortable, offered great posing and really captured the feel of the area all while getting some shots of me that I could use forever (note all the shots on this website were taken by Prasad).

After the photo shoot I decided because I was there on the right day I would check out the Thieves' Market/Feira da Ladra

The Feira da Ladra, also known as the Lisbon Flea Market, is the most popular used objects fair that takes place in the city of Lisbon, Portugal. This glorious market that sits just above Alfama only happens on Tuesday and Saturday. Located behind the Monastery of Sao Vincente da Fora, the Thieves' Market dates back to the middle ages where thieves would sale their wares that they've collected. It's much different now, obviously it's no longer where you buy stolen wares but instead you can sift through vintage records, old cameras, locally made goods, leather works, artisan jewelry and so so much more... I could have spent all day there even if just to people watch and talk to locals.

Up to this point I had been traveling and being a tourist for a week and a half which means my social meter was hitting a low so on my way back to my apartment I grabbed some simple groceries and hung out on my juliet balcony reading, then to my bed reading & napping... it was lovely.

That evening my new Brazilian friend met me at my apartment located above all the liveliest bars in Bairro Alto and whisked me away for a walk along the waters edge until we stumbled upon British Bar Lisboa down in the Cais do Sodre area where we shared some scrummy food & desserts. He was a fascinating man with so much life story to share so after dinner we just walked around and back to my place to talk all night.


... stay tuned for the rest of the story!

Roma. My First Love. Finale.

... Day 4 Continued

Prati! What a cool neighbourhood. Lots of local butcher shops, cheese shops, specialty shops and more.

Our food tour [see experience here] started off at a fabulous little specialty shop called La Nicchia Cafe where we started with the freshest mozzarella di buffalo from the Campagna region (we received it only 24 hours after it had been produced, SO fresh!). Not only was the food so incredible but it was paired with delicious local wines and an education on how to choose wines based on your meal.

The people with me on this tour were so friendly and as introductions were done and great food enjoyed together, we all became fast friends; sisters from New Jersey on the trip of a lifetime, a fun & energetic couple from Texas who just happened to end up in Rome after a trek through Iceland, a super friendly couple who were on a long weekend away from Belgium and many more. Making connections with fellow travelers is always so fun.

We moved on to a great little pizzaiolo called Bonci with the most creative pizzas by the famous chef Gabriele Bonci. Gabriele only uses the freshest, natural ingredients and prides himself on quality without compromise. Bonci looks at agriculture as culinary art.

From there we moved on to a great local, family-owned restaurant (I didn't remember to document the name of the restaurant) where the owner greeted us with delicious, freshly cured meats and other incredible specialties... and of course, wine. I wish I could remember the man's name who owned the restaurant but regardless he was so funny and loved having travelers experience his restaurant.

The final stop of the tour was at a stunning restaurant built around a garden in the center of the restaurant: Al Giardino del Gatto e la Volpe (at the garden of the cat and the fox). We ordered many delicious pasta dishes and many bottles of local delicious wines. Sitting around the table we all talked about life, travel and everything in between. We truly built a bond... so much so that my new friends from Belgium, Texas and I didn't want the night to end... so, it didn't!

The five of us hopped on the metro and went down to the Trevi fountain for gelato, which turned into drinks, which turned into getting into a very cool speakeasy in behind the Pantheon called Club Derriere. We weren't exactly sure how we were getting in but as we chatted up these people in front of us, I built a connection with one of them who was visiting from Sorrento, Italy; I told him how much I had loved visiting Sorrento on a previous trip and with that as he and his party got in, they made sure we did too. No phones allowed, in fact they didn't even work inside the dark bar. We all hung out, shared lots of stories, made friends with even more people and hung out until the sun was nearing to come up again.

I knew I had to get at least a little sleep because I had a big day ahead of me the next day.

Day 5

The most unforgettable day.

I love cooking. The planning, the act, the enjoyment... all of it. I knew I had to find an authentic cooking experience in Rome. With that, I found "Taste the real-R-home", a cooking experience by Fulvia. I especially loved that this was not a set menu cooking class, it was based off what was freshest that day in the large market in Rome.

Outside Trionfale market, near the Vatican city, Fulvia and her friend Eleanora met us and we began our journey through the market. Fish caught that morning, incredible fresh produce, freshly cured meats, fragrant/delicious cheeses, locally produced olive oils/balsamics and so much more. She would hand us fresh baked breads, have us try everything and talk to us about how to get only the best ingredients from these wonderful vendors. I can't even talk about how incredible the tomatoes were because unless you go to Italy, you'll never taste anything like it.

The other girls on this experience jumped in Fulvia's car and I traveled with Eleanora out to the exclusive area of Olgiata. We talked the whole way about her kids, how she met her friend Fulvia and how she was originally from Naples. I could cry thinking about how it felt walking around Fulvia's property on arrival. Her beautiful dogs, adorable cats, luscious gardens, incredible flowers, her bee farm, her chickens and most importantly her warm and inviting home.

Aprons on and it was time to get our hands dirty in the kitchen. I had a connection with this woman and I just felt so honoured to be in her kitchen alongside her. With the ingredients we got at the market, things from her garden and of course what she kept stocked in her kitchen we began: Artichoke souffle, homemade fettucine pasta, stuffed zucchini flowers and tiramisu. Fulvia and Eleanora got right in there with us and showed us the proper way to make everything, how to time everything and as much knowledge they could impart.

While the hosts finished up the meal, they allowed us to go wander around the property and I was just in awe.

When the meal was ready, we sat around her large harvest table outside in her garden. Fulvia and Eleanora served us everything we had made that day and it was absolutely delicious.

After dinner they took us to the local train station, bought our tickets to go back to the city and bid us farewell.

When I arrived back in Rome, I went back to my apartment to get cleaned up and the couple I had made friends with from Texas the night before were texting me to join them for dinner down in Trastevere. I was exhausted but I figured... when in Rome!

Nannarella was a modest restaurant but with delicious food and sidewalk seating. We laughed, talked and shared some absolutely devine food & wine. Our server was hilarious and was probably one of the best service experiences I had in my visits to Rome. After dinner we found a tiny, little coffee bar and I showed them the proper way to order coffee and we sat to enjoy. There was a drunk man with his dog being excessively loud, people cheering at soccer on the TV and others who were also clearly tourists.

After dinner we just strolled through Trastevere on our way home and of course had to stop by a fortune teller in the street along the way.

I got back to my apartment and crashed so hard.

Day 6

The dreaded Covid-19 test.

From Rome I was travelling on to Lisbon, Portugal. At that time, Portugal still required a negative Covid-19 test in order to come into the country. With guidance from my AirBNB host, I popped down to a pharmacy near the Pantheon to have my test done.

Scarily enough, not long before I left on this trip I had recovered from Covid-19 so I was terrified that my test may still pull a positive result as sometimes they did for people long after recovery. I explained all this to the lady taking my information at the pharmacy and she gave me a deadpan look and said 22€ for a test, 40€ if you want it negative. As much as I didn't want to take a risk of not getting into Portugal, I am too honest... after all, I am Canadian haha. Thankfully, even with taking the honest route, I had negative results so I was free to travel to Lisbon.

As I was making my way back to my apartment, I decided to grab breakfast in Piazza della Rotonda just outside the Pantheon. After I finished breakfast, I did a little shopping and then started my walk again... until I saw some of my family members. I guess even in Rome, you can't escape the Nickersons hahaha.

Rome is huge! How on earth did this happen!? My cousin Craig, his wife Rosalyn, his daughter Isabelle and his sister-in-law Nancy. I knew they were in Rome and we had actually made plans to meet up later that day for lunch but this was just too freaky! We all laughed about and went to a cafe for coffee and to catch up. What a small world. My little cousin Lucy, Craig & Rosalyn's youngest daughter, was living just outside Rome as an au pair for a family and they were there to visit her. I had plans that afternoon so running into them early ended up being much more convenient for me in the end. It was only a quick visit but what a crazy cosmic coincidence.

Then it was time to head to Tivoli! Remember the experience I had to reschedule because of my luggage delivery? This was it! I had become well versed in navigating the trains at Roma Termini in previous trips, which is good because it can be very confusing and you do have to be careful of the pick pockets in the train station.
*fun fact, a lot of scenes from the Lizzie McGuire movie were shot in Tivoli... Yes, I'm looking at you millenials.

I had arrived in Tivoli early so I headed to Parco Villa Gregoriana to hike the beautiful trails and take in the stunning waterfalls. The park, located at the feet of the city's ancient acropolis, was commissioned by Pope Gregory XVI in 1835 to rebuild the bed of the Aniene River, which had been damaged by the flood of 1826. I was fortunate to have the time to hike along the paths, take in the grottoes, enjoy the beautiful vegetation and just completely relax to the roar of the waterfalls.

After exploring Villa Gregoriana, I climbed back to the top and met with my guide my experience through Tivoli: Francesco. Francesco is native to Tivoli and is a certified environmental hiking guide. He spends a lot of time exploring nature and has built quite the business as a hiking guide. Follow him on Instagram at @sound_trekking.

Francesco and I drove to the Monte Catillo Nature Reserve where we proceeded to start our hike. Had I done this experience the day I had originally scheduled I would have been joined by other travelers but because I had to reschedule it was just he & I. As we climbed up the hillside trail, Francesco pointed out things like the wild asparagus (which he picked along the way to make a salad with later), the vegetation native to the area and had the most passion about his stunning surroundings. He talked to me about the wild boar/cows in the hillside and how the year before vandals had set fire to the area which destroyed much of the natural elements. When we reached the top of the trail, we looked over the picturesque town of Tivoli: the waterfalls that were created to divert water away from the farm land, where Villa d'Este/Hadrian's Villa were and amazingly the stunning bloomed Cercis Siliquastrum which had the most stunning fuschia-violet tones. Cercis Siliquastrum are also known as the Judas tree, which in Tivoli only bloomed for about 10 days in early spring... how fitting that I was seeing them in full bloom the day before Good Friday.
* They are called the Judas tree because it is reputed that Judas Iscariot (Jesus' traitor) had hung himself from one. These trees are native originally to Israel.

Once we had made our way back down from the hike we walked over to Maneggio Quintillo Primo riding school. I was greeted by crazy geese and an adorable big white dog that kept them in line while Francesco went to grab the owner of the school. Delio was the owner and his son Fabio worked with him at the riding school (I felt like Diane Lane in Under the Tuscan Sun being introduced to these handsome Italian men). They showed me around the grounds and we chatted as much as we could as they struggled to understand my English and me with their Italian. After spending a bit of time around the rustic grounds, they introduced me to my horse that I would ride through the mountain trails and to Sarah (who thankfully spoke English) who would be my riding guide.

On horseback, Sarah led me up the dusty trails and taught me how to maneuver my handsome steed. It was a challenge at first but I eventually got the hang of things. As we rode through the hills Sarah elaborated more to me about the devastating fire that happened just the year before and how Delio, the 74 year old native of Tivoli, worked hard to preserve the area to the best of his ability. Surrounded by wild boar, wild cows and blackened trees, the scenery from atop the horse was incredible. I remembered to let go and allow myself to just be in the moment with this once-in-a-lifetime experience. I was so fortunate to have my own private guide and to meet such warm, inviting people who were so proud of their home here in Tivoli.

Once we made our way back to the riding school after a long journey through the hills, Francesco & his friends greeted me with some wine before taking me back to the train station to go home.

I fell asleep on the train on the way back into Rome after such an adventure filled day and thankfully a woman sitting across from me heard me say something earlier about going to Rome, otherwise I would have been waking up in Naples! haha.

I decided to take it easy and just find a restaurant near my apartment for dinner. Osteria Nuvolari. This ended up being my favorite restaurant in Rome. It was directly across the tiny street from my apartment and I had noticed it every night when walking home. It was modest and not pretentious but was always packed when I would go by. This family-run, rustic-chic trattoria was incredible. The owner would stop by everyone's table being sure everything was enjoyable, his family serving you course after course of delicious food and always open to suggest more for you to eat/drink. I dined on fried artichoke, rigatoni all'amatriciana, saltimbocca alla romana and the most delicious dessert of affogato.

Day 7

This was my final day in Rome so I decided to just keep it easy. On a previous trip to Italy I had gotten a recommendation to a tattoo artist who I went to and got a great tattoo of a compass on my inner forearm so I decided I'd pay him a visit again. Gianluca Luzi is such a nice guy and runs a very clean, small tattoo shop (Ink of Rome Tattoo Shop) not too far from the Vatican. He was so excited that I had returned and patted himself on the back that my previous tattoo aged so well. This time he did a great tattoo down the outer part of my other forearm of my birth date in Roman numerals: XIII III MCMLXXXIX.

From Ink of Rome, I popped over to Machete Capelli & Barba which is a great little barbershop in the same neighbourhood to get my hair cleaned up before I departed for Lisbon.

The rest of this day was just spent picking up last minute souvenirs, a little shopping for myself and getting everything ready for the next leg of my trip.


I'll always love Rome and I know I will be back again & again, because it totally has my heart. Vini, vidi, vici.

Roma. My First Love. Part Two.

"Mr. Donnelly, your luggage was never put on the plane in Saint John"... Welcome to Roma!

Wait, let's back it up a bit.

I love talking to strangers when I have no where else to be. Realistically I talk to strangers every day at work. "Air Canada flight 890 to Rome has been delayed 3 hours". Everyone at the gate sighed, grunted and some flipped out. This beautiful well dressed older woman (you know, the type that her floral carry-on bags match and go with her shoes too) who was seated next to me hauled her mask down and looked at me and said "Are you f**king kidding me!?". 20 some odd years previous on a trip to Rome she met a guy, had a story book romance and had travelled back to visit him annually. This was going to be the first time she had seen him since the pandemic and the travel gods were throwing a wrench in her plans. I spoke to the Air Canada agent who informed me they were working on getting another plane as the one we were supposed to fly on had been hit by lightning. My thoughts were pretty clear... I'm totally fine with a new plane with that situation! I found the Roman lover lady and filled her in... She was still pissed (I wish I knew how her trip went, it sounded steamy!). Me? I found a bar and ordered up a bourbon on the rocks. I wasn't going to be on too firm of a schedule, I had a full week booked in Rome and I was choosing to travel during a global pandemic; gotta roll with it.

I finally boarded the overnight flight, popped a couple extra strength melatonin, ordered a scotch and turned on the 1953 classic "Roman Holiday" starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck... It wasn't long before I was fast asleep. Arriving at Fiumicino Airport early morning, I was ready to grab my suitcase and head to my AirBNB next door to the Vatican. Wrong! It sucks being the last person at the luggage carousel (while Roman lover lady grabbed her suitcase and walked away haha) watching the empty conveyor go round and round. I popped over to the lost luggage desk while trying to text Michelangelo who was waiting for me at his lovely AirBNB I was renting for the week on the quaint Via degli Ombrellari. "Mr. Donnelly, your luggage was never put on the plane in Saint John"... Like I said before, just gotta roll with it, it will all work out. I made the arrangements to have my luggage delivered a few days later and headed on my way! Michelangelo was there waiting for me, loaded up my apartment with snacks, wine and beer... I was home in Rome! He asked if I needed directions to go shopping to replace some things in my luggage but as I laughed I told him I totally knew where to go, not my first time here! He smirked and off I went.
[AirBNB Listing]
Oh poor me, I had to shop... In Rome.

Day 1.

Of course I had to immediately go find some delicious pasta and make my way to the Trevi fountain to finish a TikTok I started at home (kids these days... haha.)
[See TikTok here]

I shopped for basics, dropped them off at my apartment and alas I could just go and enjoy my time in Rome, it was time to begin my adventure!

Afterwards I just took it easy, found some great restaurants/bars in my neighbourhood, landed myself at my friends Luciano & Shannon's favourite restaurant Jazz Cafe just on the other side of the Ponte Umberto where I had delicious bistecca di manzo, artichokes & of course pasta. Afterwards I headed back to my apartment to go bed early to try and beat the jet leg.

* Everyone knows about using AirBNB for places to stay but what some don't realize is there are also incredible things to do as well if you look under "Experiences" instead of just stays. I had prebooked some VERY cool things to do and was so excited to see what they were all about.

Day 2.

Proper Italian espresso... there's nothing better. I quit smoking some time ago but when I'm in Europe somehow I can just pick it back up again and not have even a craving when I get home. That was breakfast: Espresso & a cigarette. I can't even explain the logic, it just is what is... It just seems necessary, like how peanut butter goes with jam.

After I scrummaged through my carry-on and yesterdays shopping, I found some reasonable things to wear for my first adventure of the trip: Kayaking in the beautiful lake situated outside the pope's summer residence. Castel Gandolfo. [See AirBNB experience here]
* Castel Gandolfo is commonly known as the Pope's City, as it houses the Pope's summer residence. It is a holiday resort located at the top of Lake Albano and is frequented by tourists from all over the world who appreciate the location, the panorama, the exquisite hospitality and the refined beauty.

I hopped on the metro at Ottaviano station and zipped over to Anagnina metro station where I met up with my fellow experiencers: A super fun & energetic couple who live between two homes, one in Singapore and another in Melbourne. There was also a nice young family of three who were just visiting for the weekend from England, the mom was originally from Russia and we had lots of interesting conversation about the war that had just commenced in Ukraine. Off we went to Castle Gandolfo where they handed us water, snacks and got us suited up with all the safety equipment needed.

I suited up and jumped in the kayak. It was a bit cool because it was still early April, but totally bearable. The water was choppy but absolutely stunning.The guides took us all around the lake pointing out gorgeous landmarks and giving us a great history lesson. I had many moments on this vacation where I just paused and took in the reality of the moment with gratitude. Sitting in a kayak, on an incredible lake where many before me had lived through history.

Once we finished kayaking they gave us all pizza! Of course. Had some time to chill in the grass with my new friends from England/Russia/Singapore/Melbourne and just prepare to head back to the city.

When I got back to Rome, I wandered around, grabbing a drink here and an espresso there; trying to figure out what I'd do for the evening. A Tipsy Tour jumped out at me on AirBNB! What a great idea! "This tipsy tour is the perfect oppurtunity for travelers (solo or geoups) to get familiar with Rome's sights as well as its signature drinks in a sociable and relaxed atmosphere with fun local guides."... sounded perfect to me.

We started the tour with beer and wine outside the famous Colosseum. After a fun round of introductions and talking to the other fellow travelers, it was time to move it along. Delicious espressos with liquers at Caffe Roma, Many variations of the Aperol Spritz at Fire - Arts & Spirits & shots outside of the monument of Vittorio Emanuele II. The best part about travelling solo is making friends along the way and this group became fast friends!

Day 3

The day my luggage turned up!

I got word that morning that my luggage would be arriving that afternoon so I had to postpone one of my experiences I had booked but as you'll read on day 6, it actually turned out to be a much better experience because of the delay.

This day was pretty chill, I went out for coffee and pastries that morning before doing a little exploring around my neighborhood shops. Once I had picked up a couple souvenirs I discovered a cool hotel near my apartment that had a glorious rooftop terrazza that overlooked the beautiful sight of Vatican City. The lovely Terrazza Les Etoiles Roma. I was seated at a table, ordered an Aperol Spritz which of course was accompanied by delicious snacks like olives, breads, etc... Then a massive seagull swooped by and stole my snacks while I was preoccupied reading my book haha.

I went back to my apartment across the street to wait for my luggage to be delivered from the airport. After waiting a few hours and navigating phones calls from the delivery company with my limited Italian and their limited English, I finally had my luggage back so that I could go about my day.

I love just walking around Rome, popping in and out of shops, visiting ethereal churches and of course people watching. I, of course, found lots of delicious food along the way; Caprese, Polpetti, Rigatoni Alla Carbonara & some great local Rose at Ristorante Il Pozzetto. I then went for a nice evening walk down to the Spanish Steps, Trevi and lots of beautiful sights as I worked my way back to my apartment. Oh, and of course, Gelato for the walk back.

Day 4

The day I accidentally went to a funeral.

Trastevere is the oldest part of Rome and in recent years is becoming the trendy, hipster neighbourhood. Lots of cool bars (also you really only get coffee in bars in Rome), restaurants, cute artisan shops, etc. I loved the beautiful street art and it was much less busy than other areas. I started my day here and loved it. Before I checked out some galleries and shops I of course popped into a bar for a quick espresso.

I grabbed a seat at Ristorante Sabatini and ordered up some delicious food and just enjoyed people watching while I drooled over the incredible cuisine. This restaurant sits across the way from Basilica di Santa Maria which is a pre-medieval church with a mosaic facade. I asked my server if the church was open for visitors, he took a quick glance over and said to me if the doors are open, its open. I should have looked a little closer for myself than I did because after I went over and walked in it took me a few minutes to realize there was a funeral happening! Did I walk out right away? Of course not, I stayed quietly in the back and just took in the environment.

When I left the church I sent my dad a text because I would let him know how my day was going now and then while traveling; he was confused how I accidentally crashed a funeral but found it funny that I of course would end up in a situation like that. That was definitely a stupid tourist move.

After that exciting afternoon I headed back to my apartment to get ready for a food & wine tour that I was doing in the off the tourist path neighbourhood of Prati.

... the rest of Day 4 will have to wait for the next chapter as it was a food & wine tour turned into incredible friendships and fun times!

Roma. My First Love. Part One.

Back in October 2016, I boarded a plane without a care in the world; I was finally going to my dream destination… Italy. This adventure sparked a passion inside of me for culture, people, places, experiences and what it means to live a life.

My first European trip was done with a company called Contiki. Contiki is a travel company for people ages 18-35. The company was founded over 50 years ago in New Zealand, connecting young people with the experience of travel alongside new friends who are also seeking the adventure of a lifetime. My first trip was a tour through Rome, Florence & Venice (with incredible stops along the way in places like San Gimignano, Verona, Pisa and Murano). I made lifelong friendships, unforgettable memories and when I close my eyes I can still see their smiling faces & hear the roaring laughter. A year later in October 2017, I was fortunate to travel with Contiki again to Barcelona, Nice, Monaco, Cinques-Terre, Amalfi Coast, Rome, Florence, Pompeii and more. The second trip made me feel even more comfortable with the idea of solo travel so I did just that; once the tour finished in Rome, I jumped on the Trenitalia train to Fiumicino Airport, hopped an inexpensive flight to Santorini, Greece and after lots of interesting language issues (& a panic attack involving a donkey) I found myself in a beautiful AirBNB apartment on the beach in an area called Kamari for a few days. With the help of the lovely AirBNB host and us both trying to communicate using Google Translate, I learned to take the local bus to travel around the gorgeous island. I made friends with strangers at rooftop restaurants, danced with new friends in loud bars, drank too much raki, sunbathed my bare behind on sandy beaches and even watched the sun set and rise from a new comrade’s cliff side hot tub in the volcanic mountain rocks of Thera.

A few years of my travel being based in North America for weddings & life events, then a world-wide pandemic, then branching out on my own to be my own boss… The itch grew strong to travel (or escape) to Europe again, but this time I was going to do my own thing entirely.

Back to Rome. I mean, I’ve thrown enough coffee money in the Trevi fountain on previous trips (it’s said that if you throw coins in the historic fountain you’ll be brought back to Rome) to keep an entire football team caffeinated. It’s a classic. Rome is everything you see in movies, it’s as magical as you think. The city of seven hills is a melting pot of the rest of Italy, a place to see a glimpse of and feel what the life of an Italian truly is. Rome, Italy has influenced much of European architecture, history and culture. The rest of Italy continues to influence everything else that goes into everything about Roma; espresso from Naples, tomatoes from Campania, wine from Chianti, olives from Liguria and so much more.

Planning this trip was part of the fun for me this time because I was curating my own experience based off previous trips, research and of course the art of dolce far niente.

… to be continued