Lisboa. Tiles, Smiles & Pasteis de Nata. Part Two/Finale.

Day 5

Anyone who knows me knows how much I love shoes, they are something I can never have too many of and always enjoy buying when I'm away. I had in my head on this trip that I was going to find the perfect pair of simple, clean lined black leather mules and I had already looked all over Rome (when in reality everyone knows you shop in Florence for proper leather goods if you’ve been to Italy) the week before but I was determined I'd find them in Lisbon.

My Brazilian friend decided he'd take me out to a huge proper mall. We had a quick breakfast back at Fabrica de Nata and then it was on the train out to Centro Colombo & Vasco da Gama Shopping Center. He & I searched every store and he was so sweet trying to grasp my vision but nothing was what I pictured that was until just when we had given up we found a single shoe store that had a pair!... Unfortunately, even after overcoming the laziest sales associates, we had every box pulled down to try and find the right fit but alas my feet are just so damned big that they didn't have any that fit. (I, still to this day, haven't found a pair.)

It wasn't the end of the world, we at least had a fun day together shopping around and taking a walk through some beautiful large outdoor art installations and of course walking along the waters edge. We eventually made our way back on the train and he went about his day and I decided to wander the streets of Chiado going in and out of shops for more retail therapy and enjoying the street art along the way.

Remember Prasad? The photographer I had hired for some photos? He had highly recommended I take his friend Ruthy's food tour: Lisbon's Best Flavors [IG]. I jumped at this opportunity and booked this fantastic AirBNB experience for that afternoon. This was a food tour through the glorious neighborhood of Alfama.

Back to Miradouro das Portas do Sol as it was usually the best meeting spot for any group activity. Ruthy was there dressed in bright red and all the other travelers gathered around her. We started our round of introductions with each other and in the large group was this young couple who turned out to be from Quispamsis, New Brunswick (15 minute drive from my home)! Ruthy was definitely the epitome of an expert guide; Before we made our way to the first stop she took us down into this archway down the stairs from our meeting point where an artist had painted in comic book style sequence the history of Lisbon. She talked to us about the historic earthquakes that occured on the morning of November 1st, 1755. These very serious series of earthquakes destroyed much of the port, the city and unfortunately killed an estimated 60,000 people. She also showed us some very impressive sights that managed to survive the monumentous natural disaster some 267 years prior.

Our first food stop was a little wine bar that in fact had a wall in the back of the bar that was actually made from salvaged material from the earthquakes of 1755 where we got to experience some delightful vinho verde. Vamos ao Algarve was our next stop where we had delicious fish cakes and rice as well as scrumptious sardines on homemade crostinis, then it was off to Murato for an incredible octopus salad and other various delicacies. I wish I documented all the places but instead I encourage you to take this tour if ever in Lisbon... actually, I encourage you to book a trip specifically around this food tour in Alfama. We had incredible cheeses, chorizo, ginja and so much more... including, of course, Pasteis de Nata.

Not only did I build a great rapport with our energetic/engaging tour guide, I also ended up befriending two outgoing ladies who were visiting from Anguilla and we made plans to hang out later that night. Tish & Rochelle wanted a good night out in my neighbourhood as I was staying in the liveliest area so I was more than happy to oblige!

A friend from home, the infamous sommelier Craig Pinhey, had highly suggested I check out this fabulous little wine bar which funny enough turned out to be just downstairs from my apartment. The Old Pharmacy Wine Inn was converted from an early 20th century pharmacy but actually retained most of the original decor. They had an extensive wine selection to choose from so the ladies and I shared a few bottles and some flavorsome snacks. It was a great spot to start our night. Then it was time to dance! We stumbled our way down the street to Friends Bairro Alto. This fabulous LGBTQIA+ friendly nightclub is the best place to dance, hang with friends, make new ones and just feel mutually accepted. We instantly made friends with a whole group of people and danced our hearts out while sharing laughs. I even met a really great guy who ended up becoming a fantastic friend; Laz, a graduate student at NYU (fun fact, at his graduation when he got back, Taylor Swift was to speak!), who was on spring break. Before I went back home Laz and I made plans to hit up the famous Pastéis de Belém the next morning.

Day 6

Laz and I met up at the train station very early in the morning to beat the rumored crowds that usually line up outside the famous bakery. We arrived right at opening and got right in to Pastéis de Belém. My friend Dee had told me before I left that it had to be a MUST on my trip and I was so glad I made it. As a result of the 1820 liberal revolution, all convents and monasteries in Portugal were shut down in 1834, the clergy and labourers expelled. In an attempt at survival, someone from the monastery offered sweet pastries for sale in the shop; pastries that rapidly became known as 'Pastéis de Belém'.

Mouth orgasm. That's the only way to describe these absolutely incredible sweet pastries. I could have cried because they were THAT good... or maybe because I was so hungover haha. All other Pastéis I had eaten up to this point just would never amount anything close to these.

We finally pulled ourselves away even though it was difficult to do so because we could have probably feasted all day. We popped online and grabbed tickets for the Jerónimos Monastery next door. The lineup was long but it moved very quickly and I was so lucky to have Laz who has an incredible wealth of knowledge of all things history. This monastery is an important example of Manueline, or Portuguese Late Gothic architecture. As we walked through, Laz explained some things in regards to the history/religion that totally blew me away and at the same time I felt I should have known from growing up in the Catholic church.

After we toured through the notable building, we grabbed a train back to the waterfront and walked back up to Bairro Alto to meet a friend of his for lunch at A Cevicheria. Although a casual Peruvian spot serving ceviche & seafood dishes with an Asian twist, hanging above the bar was a humongous octupus which was very cool. We had some incredible, fresh ceviche with the tastiest pisco sours I had ever had. We hung onto every word our server said and totally let them decide what we were to have that day for lunch.

We said goodbye to our lunch date and headed to Castelo de S. Jorge. *São Jorge Castle, sometimes known in English as Saint George's Castle, is a historic castle in the Portuguese capital of Lisbon, located in the freguesia of Santa Maria Maior. Human occupation of the castle hill dates to at least the 8th century BC while the first fortifications built date from the 1st century BC. It served as a royal Moorish residence, until Portugal's first king, Afonso Henriques, captured it in 1147 with the help of northern European crusaders on their way to the Holy Land. It was later dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of England, commemorating the Anglo-Portuguese pact dating from 1371, and became the royal palace until another one (that was destroyed in the Great Earthquake) was built in today's Comercio Square.

*trigger warning
We walked around the castle walls taking in the breathtaking views of old and new Lisbon. What a stark contrast. When standing on a castle wall, my friend explained to me the psychology of HPP (High Place Phenomenon). Have you ever been walking near the edge of a cliff when suddenly, for no apparent reason, you felt the urge to jump? You're not actually going to do it but it's a weird psycholigical feeling that many experience and because it was so windy we decided to get down and walk around the grounds.

Peacocks! They were everywhere. The male peacocks are the beautiful ones that fan their tail feathers out showcasing the stunning details of their majestic bodies. These mesmerizing birds surround the gardens, hangout in the olive/cork trees or just flaunt around. I even got up close and personal with a couple.

Once we finished up around the grounds we worked our way back down to Alfama where I caught an Uber back to my AirBNB for a much needed nap.

That evening Laz, a new friend of his from B.C. and I ran through the torrential rain to a restaurant for dinner, unfortunately I had to cut it short because after traveling for almost two weeks my body started shutting down and I was getting a little sick.

I drugged myself to sleep with melatonin and popped earplugs in to try and kick the illness.

Day 7


Unfortunately in the morning I was still a little queasy so I ventured down to the pharmacy where they gave my something to settle myself and may or may not gave me some sort of valium haha.

Once I felt a little better I grabbed some Pho at a great Vietnamese place close to my apartment because it always helps me feel better. Boa Bao is such a fantastic restaurant nestled between Bairro Alto and Baixa. The restaurant itself is beautiful and the food is incredible.

I planned on just taking it easy on this day because it was my last day in Lisbon and the weather wasn't optimal. I shopped for a few last minute things and as I walked past this elaborate store for probably the 20th time, it was time I finally had to stop in: Vista Alegre. This particular location was near my apartment and in the window they had the most beautiful china with the illustrations of Lisbon painted on them. I had eyed one particular plate every day that I walked by and I finally bit the bullet and went in to buy it. Vista Alegre's boutique in Lisbon beautifully showcases the pieces made at the workshops in Ílhavo, all harmoniously combining tradition with modernity. Founded in 1824, Vista Alegre is known for its creativity, technical expertise and craftsmanship. Everytime I look at this plate it brings back so much joy. It is the rooftops of Alfama which makes me remember standing at Miradouro das Portas do Sol on Easter Sunday and looking out over the city that would soon capture my heart. *[See my plate here]

I went back to my apartment to finish packing and getting everything ready to travel home when suddenly my doorbell rang. It was my Brazilian friend, he surprised me and took me by train to Cascais, Portugal.
*Cascais is a coastal resort town in Portugal, just west of Lisbon. It’s known for its sandy beaches and busy marina. The old town is home to the medieval Nossa Senhora da Luz Fort and the Citadel Palace, a former royal retreat.

The weather was dreary still but it didn't matter, the town was so enchanting. We walked on the silk like sand on the beach in the rain and just looked around at the alluring architecture. Eventually making our way to a splendid little Indian restaurant, we had a great dinner together. Flavour was just a short walk from Cascais Quay and had such mouthwatering food. It was a great last meal in Portugal.

After dinner we walked through some shops and then this little art studio caught my eye: Toranja. This brand is a fabulous Portugese treasure. Toranja takes the work of designers, illustrators and photographers and turns them into great take home products. I happened to be in the right place at the right time as this was their opening day. I found two large posters by the artist Nuno Martinho and instantly knew I had to have them. "Beco do Surra" & "Belém Window".

With my purchases tucked under my arm, we walked the beautiful prominades of Cascais back to the train station and back to Lisbon.

I'll never forget that melancholy feeling of sitting in my apartment reliving in my head everything I had just experienced in the last two weeks.

Tears rolled down my face as I just lived with gratitude; I kayaked on Lake Albano below the pope's summer residence, I cooked with the incomporable Fulvia in her kitchen in Olgiata, rode horse a top mountains in Tivoli, sailed into the sunset along the Tejo river, toured story book palaces in Sintra, stood in the winds of Europe's most western point of Cabo da Roca, danced all night with friends from all over the world in a tiny club in Bairro Alto and most importantly met people who will live in my memories for a lifetime.

Quem não arrisca não petisca. *Those who do not risk, do not benefit.