Lisboa. Tiles, Fado & Pasteis de Nata. Part One.

My day started in the wee waking hour of 3am gathering my things in my apartment in Rome and hopping into an Uber to head to Ciampino Airport. It was a different airport experience because instead of scanning my passport I had to scan my EU Covid-19 passport… oh the trauma we don’t even realize fully yet. Arriving at Humberto Delgado Airport was surreal; I quickly started googling translating some common Portugese phrases so that I didn't appear rude for not even trying. I collected my luggage and hopped into a taxi to head to my AirBNB in the busy district of Bairro Alto.

Day 1

My AirBNB hosts were gracious enough to allow me to leave my things with the cleaning people because I was way too early to check in and the previous renters had just left. I dropped my things and headed down the street to a cute little park "Praça Luís de Camões" where after traveling all morning from Rome to Lisbon, I was starving and feasted on Pasteis de Nata and a delicious sandwich... However, thinking back it probably wasn't all that yummy but when you haven't eaten in 12hrs anything is delicious haha.

Surrounded by sun, bustling street cars, beautiful tile work on the buildings and gorgeous people, I was officially in Lisbon (Lisboa), Portugal. I had a while to wait still, so not far from the park was a sauna/spa so I went for a little rest, recharge and most importantly shower. Great spot to kill time haha.

Finally, I checked into my AirBNB and took a little disco nap before my first booked experience in Lisbon: a sunset sail on the Tagus (Tejo) River.

Before I headed to the meeting point of Padrão dos Descobrimentos, I found a quiet little patio at Cafe Candeias and had a delicious, fresh assortment of cheeses, meats and delectable tapinades as well as fabulous local wine... All for such little money, I couldn't get over how inexpensive Lisbon was!

After my little snack I hopped in a taxi and made my way to the meeting point. While I waited to board the sailboat, I sat on the rivers edge and just basked in the sun watching sailboats go by. The three young guys that were running the sailing charter got everyone on board, gave us blankets, endless amounts of vino verde and snacks. As we embarked on our sail, I noticed on the other side of the river was a Christ statue much like the one that is in Rio, Brazil: Cristo Rei stands high above the southern banks of the Tejo Estuary, and depicts Christ with arms raised, blessing the city. This felt appropriate as the following day would be Easter Sunday. Sitting next to me on the stern of the boat was a lovely, friendly couple visiting from Brussels, they were just in for the weekend and loved sailing. This was such a beautiful view of Lisbon from the water; the Champalimaud Foundation, Belem Tower, the National Museum of Ancient Art, Belem Cultural Center, Discovery Monument, Belem Palace Gardens, Jeronimos Monastery, the Electricity Museum, the April 25 Bridge, Ribiera Market, Ajuda National Palace, Empire Square, Commerce Square and the pier columns. Once we reached the end of what they wanted to show us on the tour down the river, they turned the boat and we sailed back into the sunset. It was an overwhelming feeling of calm, beauty and gratitude. It was a feeling I'll never forget, meditative almost.

Once we docked I jumped into one of the infamous tuk-tuks that are used for getting around the beautiful city and I face-timed my sister while I laughed at the rickety ride and caught up a bit while we worked our way back to my apartment in Bairro Alto... which I quickly realized, I was staying in the party district haha.

I met up with a new friend I had made earlier in the day who was visiting from Toronto and we journeyed our way through the bars and pubs along the way. Shots - 1€, Caipirinha - 3€, laughs - free. I had so much fun talking about travel, life and everything in between with a fellow Canadian chum.

Day 2

Easter Sunday!

With over 100+ Catholic churches in Lisbon, it is known to be one of the largest Catholic capitals in Europe per capita.

How did I decide to celebrate? Well, I took a tuk-tuk tour of the city built on Fado music. Accompanying me on this delightful tour given by the high-spirited Paulo were two vivacious retired teachers from South Carolina. Rafael met us at the bustling Avenida da Liberdade. I love these rustic, rickety golf cart-like tuk-tuks haha... you really get to feel the streets! Our first stop after a quick drive by the famous Santa Justa Lift was at the Lisbon Cathedral where Easter Sunday mass was starting; although I grew up proper Catholic I no longer subscribe to organized religion but am fascinated with religious ritualism which always draws me to places of worship all over the world. I got a huge kick out of the two southern belles with me on the tour, they were so polite that every person selling wares in the streets totally suckered them into buying absolutely everything... they were adorable and so sweet. Next up was the Museu de Lisboa Teatro Romano, which is a theatre dating back to 1st century AD. It was so cool to see this archaeological wonder! Afterwards we went to Miradouro da Senhora do Monte which is a stunning observation point in a churchyard and gives one of the most panoramic views of the city. What did I do at this glorious lookout? I found a Pasteis de Nata vendor and got my daily fix alongside a delicious street espresso. Then it was off to Miradouro das Portas do Sol (which ended up being a meeting point for many more experiences on my trip in Lisbon) where I purchased some artwork, took some selfies and found some more espresso haha. Alfama! The oldest area of Lisbon, was our next stop and my favourite area. I noticed right away while going through the little alleyways that there were little plaques along the way with pictures of people on them and no write-ups so I asked Paulo what the story was. He told me that these were people who are respected in the area and proceeded to share with me that the older people in Alfama are highly respected and because of that their rents are kept low so that they can remain in their longtime homes. We got to experience Ginja at a traditional Ginjinha, climb the walls of the smallest alleyway in the city and the final stop was at the incredible Time Out Market on the waterfront.

Friends from home told me about this glorious market from their times in Lisbon so I was excited to take Jim, Rae & Victoria's recommendation. The point of the global branded Time Out Market is to allow visitors the opportunity to experience some of the best spots of the city in which it's located. Let me say, I ate my way through that market, so many delicious specialties to try!

After a bustling morning of playing tourist I made my way back to my apartment for a little nap and then I decided to head back to the sauna/spa in my neighbourhood for a little relax/recharge. This time I ended up meeting a really sweet, kind and hospitable (& cute haha) Brazilian expat who had moved to Portugal a few years prior to study. He took me to a little Brazilian restaurant and showed me what a traditional meal of his home looked like. Once we had our fill of delectable goodness, we took a walk around Chiado and down to the waterfront where I was a typical tourist and grabbed myself one of the big hollowed out pineapples filled with alcohol and then we just sat and watched the boats go by and talked all evening.

Day 3

Sintra!

I was so excited for this day and it did not disappoint. Back at Avendida da Liberdade, I found a cute ornate cafe, Fabrica de Nata, where I grabbed a delicious cappucino and some avocado toast... and a Pasteis de Nata, of course. Once fueled up I met up with my tour mates and our energetic guide, Duarte (IG: @keepitlocaltours) [see AirBNB experience here]. Rachel, the teacher from the U.S. who decided to take her skills, education and experience to Valencia, Spain. Daniel the renewable energy developer & private pilot who goes between Amsterdam, Houston & Tokyo. Ellen & Joe the incredible personal trainers from NYC. Alex & his daughter Sophie from Connecticut who are avid travelers and viral TikTok stars. What a bunch! This crew was so fun to explore Sintra with. Ethereal gardens, storybook castles/palaces and some of the most remarkable nature scenes I've ever seen throughout Regaleira Palace and its small villages surrounding.

We shared lunch at Pensão Sisudo, which is a quaint restaurant in the heart of Sintra owned by a friend of Daurte's family. We had a full, gorgeous meal of soup, rice & beans, salad, fish, dessert and all with wine for 20€! Incredible. The lady who owned the restaurant was the one who served us and she truly loved having travelers in her establishment.

After lunch it was back in the van and off to Praja da Adraga, a private-ish beach on the Atlantic Ocean with crashing waves, shimmering sands and captivating views. We hung out here and took photos, talked, laughed and before leaving popped into the little beach hut for some shots for one of the travelers birthdays. Being from a city that sits on a bay off the Atlantic Ocean it was kind of a symbiotic feeling for me to be back on the same ocean but from another continent.

We then made our way to the windiest place I've ever been... The most western point of Europe: Cabo Da Roca. *Cabo da Roca or Cape Roca is a cape which forms the westernmost point of the Sintra Mountain Range, of mainland Portugal, of continental Europe, and of the Eurasian landmass. It is situated in the municipality of Sintra, near Azóia, in the southwest of the district of Lisbon.

We walked along the cliffs, laughing at how we could barely stand in these winds and just marveled in awe of the landscape, the ocean and agriculture.

As we worked our way back to Lisbon we stopped to take in more charming spots to relish in the gorgeous natural surroundings including an enchanted misty forest and Duarte surprised us with delicious sweet treats from a local bakery to finish it off.

Once I got back, rested & showered, I met up with Ellen, Joe and Daniel from the Sintra tour at Tapas 52 for dinner. Grilled octopus, sardines, salads, meatballs, eggplant and more... We had a delicious meal and a few bottles of wine while we talked about our adventures. We then went bar hopping and enjoyed our time together while galavanting around Bairro Alto.

Day 4

My friend Gray & her husband Matt said one of the best things they had done for themselves on their travel through Lisbon was to hire a photographer to give them photos to remember for a lifetime. She suggested the photographer they used and I jumped at the opportunity. Prasad (IG: @shootmelisboa) was wonderful, he met me up in Miradouro das Portas do Sol just after sunrise so that the streets were quiet and we weren't fighting through tourists to get the great shots he had planned. He made me feel so comfortable, offered great posing and really captured the feel of the area all while getting some shots of me that I could use forever (note all the shots on this website were taken by Prasad).

After the photo shoot I decided because I was there on the right day I would check out the Thieves' Market/Feira da Ladra

The Feira da Ladra, also known as the Lisbon Flea Market, is the most popular used objects fair that takes place in the city of Lisbon, Portugal. This glorious market that sits just above Alfama only happens on Tuesday and Saturday. Located behind the Monastery of Sao Vincente da Fora, the Thieves' Market dates back to the middle ages where thieves would sale their wares that they've collected. It's much different now, obviously it's no longer where you buy stolen wares but instead you can sift through vintage records, old cameras, locally made goods, leather works, artisan jewelry and so so much more... I could have spent all day there even if just to people watch and talk to locals.

Up to this point I had been traveling and being a tourist for a week and a half which means my social meter was hitting a low so on my way back to my apartment I grabbed some simple groceries and hung out on my juliet balcony reading, then to my bed reading & napping... it was lovely.

That evening my new Brazilian friend met me at my apartment located above all the liveliest bars in Bairro Alto and whisked me away for a walk along the waters edge until we stumbled upon British Bar Lisboa down in the Cais do Sodre area where we shared some scrummy food & desserts. He was a fascinating man with so much life story to share so after dinner we just walked around and back to my place to talk all night.


... stay tuned for the rest of the story!