Picture It: Sicily 2023. Finale.
Day 6
Who doesn't love a 4:00 am alarm? It was an early rise but worth it to save a ton of money and even more so time. Once a day, at 06:00-06:30 am, there is an express bus that takes you from Agrigento to Catania and then just a short bus ride from Catania to Taormina. Had I taken the normal route it would be 7-10hrs depending on the time of day. This was worth getting up early! I wish I had known this before I spent hundreds & hundreds of dollars getting to Agrigento in the first place but as they say "woulda, shoulda, coulda".
After two bus rides, I was back in Taormina! My friends were waiting for me in their AirBNB and when I arrived at their spot they had found two ladies to come in and do their nails, so I had time to group myself together. After getting my beach bag together I decided to go around the corner to the local barber in the heart of the town. The barber at Melo Barber Shop spoke no English but gave me the perfect fade.
After my haircut we headed to the beach. Down, down, down... through twisty turvy downward hills, cracked stone outdoor staircases and finally to the beach. Seated on the break-water to Isola Bella, we plopped down our beach gear and immediately basked in the glorious sunshine. The water was a little chilly that day so we didn't really swim but definitely enjoyed the atmosphere. Once we were sufficiently baked in the sun we popped over to the beach restaurant at the far end of the sandy paradise beach where waves crashed up over the lower deck and ordered some delicious pasta and wine. With a view of Isola Bella I was instantly transported back to watching the infamous show "White Lotus" where in season 2, Isola Bella was featured. It gave me great Jennifer Coolidge vibes.
After our late lunch on the beach we went back up the hill to the AirBNB where we decided to take a nap before going out to dinner. Dinner was a scrumptious feast of Caprese, other salads, pasta and for me Branzino... the perfect start to the evening. We wandered after dinner to find a great outdoor restaurant/cocktail spot, Ristorante La Scala, hidden in a stair-lined alley where we sat outside, had cocktails and listened to the musicians who performed outside. He even made me tear up as he played my high school graduation song: Wonderwall by Oasis. We spent the rest of the evening going to cocktail spots all around and enjoying a perfect Sicilian evening.
Day 7
Haleigh had reached the end of her trip but Jackie and I were headed off to Ortigia.
We hopped a train to the beautiful town which is the oldest area of Siracusa. Immediately we were struck by the stunning ornate architecture of the old town. We checked into our charming AirBNB tucked just in from the main street along the water.
Once we showered and got our bearings, micronapped, we decided to wander the streets and check out what Ortigia had to offer. We strolled in and out of shops, grabbed small bites and coffee along the way and just enjoyed the art of dolce far niente. I suggested we take a look to see if there any cool AirBNB experiences in the area so after we scrolled through the app we found a boat tour around Ortigia and Sircusa. Our guide, Claudio, was the perfect host to show us through the beautiful coast line. He was a dapper older gentleman, dressed in a simple yet classically European outfit: Blue jeans, a light sweater, ocean blue cashmere scarf and simple deep brown suede coat. He went between speaking English, Italian and French depending on which boat guest he was talking to... or comically jesting. We entered a few sea caves along the Syracusan coast and giggled as the water splashed up into the boat along the way. Claudio explained all the buildings and their history as we moved through the north coast.
Jackie and I were starved after travelling and then venturing around so we decided to walk until we found a spot on the water serving up aperitivo as we definitely needed snacks but most importantly wine. We sat and just enjoyed the breeze off the water accompanied with snacks and quality conversation with each other. The bar owner had a beautiful dog that kept the outdoor guests entertained as it was the sweetest black and white little angel. I don't know who teared up more, Jackie or me, but we loved the sweet and gentle nature of the dog as it rested it's head in our laps relishing in our pats.
Once we finished a few glasses of wine we decided to take Zio Toto's suggestion for a gorgeous restaurant that had a rooftop restaurant looking out at all of Ortigia/Siracusa. Grand Hotel Ortigia. Toto had actually suggested we go for apertivo but we had just missed it so we instead were the first dinner guests of the night. F-A-N-C-Y to say the least and we definitely were not dressed for the occasion but we weren't made to feel anything but welcome. The menu was small and everything sounded amazing so we indulged and just went for it. We started off with "complimentary" prosecco and then course after course the food just kept coming and of course wine to pair. It was most definitely the most expensive meal of the trip, but based on atmosphere, service, quality and of course the company... it was worth it.
After dinner we just enjoyed a walk along the water before heading back to our AirBNB, tucked in the alley, with snacks we picked up and just had a relaxing night in our cozy beds.
Day 8
In the morning we wandered down to a cafe for our caffeine fix and we sat in the street side patio with covering to shelter from the rain. After we were fuelled up we went to Il Mercato di Ortigia, a beautiful street market. Antiques, produce, clothing, crafts... everything, it was all there. I decided it was a good idea to start with an interesting breakfast: there were many seafood vendors serving up oysters and white wine for 1 Euro. When in Ortigia. We then ventured over the a sandwich place that came highly recommended by Claudio and he definitely did not disappoint; Fratelli Burgio. This place was dreamy for a foodie... tapinades, olive oils and many more beautiful things, it was a delicious dream. We ordered up our huge sandwiches and walked the streets as crumbs fell all over us and sauces dripped down our chins. We spent the morning/early afternoon just browsing stores.
It was time to go back to Taormina. We boarded the train and headed back.
I checked back into my hotel where Giusy awaited my arrival and Jackie went to her AirBNB. I was wiped so I took a nap before meeting up later that night for dinner. Dinner was of course incredible but all I recall that evening was the pistachio cheesecake for dessert. After dinner we bopped around to different outdoor cocktail spots before going our seperate ways. Jackie went on to hang with her Taormina buddies and I went to sleep.
Day 9
This was a much needed day of rest. Nothing to report. Just rest. All day.
Day 10
The last day in Sicily.
I had been missing taking advantage of the breakfast buffet at Il Piccolo Giardino... it wasn't anything wild, but it was perfect.
After breakfast I met up with Jackie to go see some historical sites around Taormina. Teatro Antico di Taormina was the one we both definitely loved. We could always see it off in the distance but hadn't made it there. The ancient theatre was started in the third century by the Greeks. It was originally constructed as a theatre for performance and plays but later became a battleground for gladiators in Roman times. The ruins looked over Messina and Taormina and what stood remains of the ruins were incredible. Architecture is always going to be my nerd moment.
After we toured around for awhile, I decided I had to take Jackie to Castelmola and of course Bar Turrisi. The dicks, everywhere, dicks. Penises everywhere you looked (go back and read Day 1 of Sicily). This is where I knew Jackie was my kinda friend, after a couple drinks, I said to her I wish she would come to Budapest with me the next day... so she said, okay! She booked her flight then & there. What kind of friend just goes with your idea like that? Flying to yet another country, totally blind and just does it with conviction? Jackie, that's who. God, I love her.
After we had a few drinks surrounded by cocks, it was time to go back to our respective accomodations and pack. I also had to say goodbye to Giusy, even though she (without knowing) cost me $617.00 CAD unexpectedly to get to San Leone/Agrigento, I still adored and was so grateful for her. The flight the next day was early and we had no idea what was in store for us still...
Stay tuned for Budapest, Hungary...
